Bridge with a difference
The Bogoda bridge is a bridge with a difference. It is a unique wooden
bridge with a canopy of flat Kandyan tiles. It lies in the hallowed premises
of the historic Bogoda Raja Maha Viharaya in the precincts of the Badulla
district.
Bogoda is not a far cry from Badulla. Though it lies in the remotest corner,
nestling amidst the Badulla mountain frontier, it still harbours a masterpiece
of an uncommon wooden bridge with a fascinating roof, clad with flat tiles
redolent of peerless Kandyan architecture.
Along the Badulla - Bandarawela highway, through Hali Ella, one
comes to Ketawela. From Jagula lies a decrepit access road that leads to
this epic Bogoda temple with its splendid wooden bridge. The distance along
this stretch of worn out roadway is about 2 miles. The total distance from
Badulla is about 12 miles. The road ends at this temple which stands on
a small hillock among groves of coconut and arecanut palms waving languidly
in the cool breeze wafting across the mountain ranges.
Buddha statue and murals
The rock temple is housed in a rock cave hermitage of old which shelters
a reclining Buddha statue, old mural paintings and a devale. On the apex
of this rock cave are found neatly cut drip ledges below which are etched
a line of inscriptions denoting Brahmi characters. The mural paintings depict
fascinating and artistic motiffs of Buddhist traditions and culture. The
reclining Buddha statue of terracotta presents a sublime demeanour of Buddha
in Paranibbana.
At its entrance, is another artistic door frame on which ornamental designs
are sculptured. The door itself appears to be of heavy wood. To compensate
its heavy weight are two equally heavy brass locks fitted to its weighty
door. There are also two worn out statues which at first appearance look
like statues made out of wood. But actually they are wooden moulds for casting
Buddha statues.
Lying below the rock temple is another rare find, a tunnel which they
say winds its dingy way to end near the Narangala hill ranges. It is the
home of bats whose droppings have formed a thick carpet on its floor. Its
offensive odour is sufficient enough to drive away anybody who just wants
to have a glance at it.
Wooden bridge
Wedged between the temple premises and the hillock, flows Gallanda Oya
in a cascading roar over rocks and boulders to form into rock pools filled
with whispering waters which are cold and crystal clear.
It is across this Gallanda Oya that this wooden bridge adorned with a
roof thatched with flat tiles has been constructed across this little stream.
The wooden bridge stands in all its splendour and grace, reminiscent of
flawless Kandyan architecture of fame. Actually at a distance it has the
appearance of some little cottage in real Kandyan architectural design.
Many are the quaint legends that speak of this Bogoda bridge. No nails have
been driven into this timber structure.
Its legends
Unleashing one such strand of legend it says that during the past when
kings and queens ruled over ancient Lanka, the people in this area trekked
on prilgrimages to Mahiyangane and Kandy through these old trails, after
crossing Gallanda Oya where there was no bridge or even a foot-bridge (edanda)
to get across.
So these people who hailed from those villages like Nillandahinna, Uda
Pusselawa, Godamane, Kandaketiya made a vow to God Vishnu to have some sort
of bridge constructed.
Their supplication was duly answered. By some magic spell, a huge tree
that was felled in the Narangala hill range to be used as timber to constuct
a contraption to cross the stream, was miraculously brought to a village
called Lunugalla. On the following day to everybody�s amazement a
miracle did happen, as the trunk of this felled tree was by some supernatural
power brought to the site near Gallanda Oya.
So the fore-runner to the construction of this epic wooden bridge with
a roof paved with flat tiles is this curious legend which is believed to
be its mythical origin.
Dambadeniya- Kandyan, periods
So with this tree trunk, a foot-bridge came into existence, attributed
originally to the Dambadeniya period (circa 1220-1283 A D.) Bogoda had its
etymology from the presence of a few Bo trees that were lined along the
ancient trails that blazed to Mahiyangane and Kandy. Even today a couple
of these old Bo trees still stand as lone sentinels in mute testimony to
this folklore surrounding the origin of Bogoda. Ruins of an ambalama (resting
place of old) still appear to be seen at a place called Ruppebedda Udameyama
Gamana which had stood on this old vanished trail to Bogoda.
During the Kandyan period in the reign of the last King of Kandy, Sri
Wickrama Rajasinghe, this bridge was transformed into its present state
with railings, wooden planks and a roof clad with flat tiles. Its length
is about 40 feet. Originally the wooden pillars had stood on slabs of rock
(at its exit) which in later years had been constructed on a concrete abutment
as seen now.
Its entrance has been cut through an outcrop of rock through which passage
the access to the bridge is gained. The wooden bridge at this end rests
on this rock outcrop. The floor of the bridge has plank. The wooden railings
stand on 10 dwarfed wooden pillars on either side.
Lying below the rock temple and the wooden bridge is the temple premises
(priests' Avasa or residence) sheltering under the arbour of coconut
and arecanut palms.
Past glimpses
The rock temple appears to date back to Valagamba's reign in exile
(1st Century B.C., also known as Vattagamani). During Valagamba's
reign, the country was in turmoil with foreign invasions and local rebellions
hostile to his rule. Our chronicles tell us that the Tamils ruled for 15
years while he was in exile, and at the end of this fifteen - year exile
from the throne, Vattagamani Abhaya or Valagam Bahu vanquished the Tamils
in a decisive victory, and emancipated ancient Lanka from the yoke of foreign
oppression.
Valagam Bahu has been spoken of in our ancient chronicles and in our folk
poems that during his period of exile, he always sought sanctuary in the
rock caves nestling in the recess of the forests. Tradition holds the view
that this rock temple was the hideout of Valagam Bahu and the construction
of the temple and the reclining Buddha statue 18 feet in length have been
attributed to his meritorious works. The tunnel too is believed to terminate
through its abysal sub terranean dark passage near the Narangala hill range.
Another amusing legend surrounds this tunnel. It is said that when a certain
Buddhist priest was there, a dog had chased an animal and the priest too
followed its spoor, only to find its terminus was near the Narangala hill
range.
Brahmi inscriptions & Frescoes
The Brahmi inscriptions, the present incumbent told us have been only
partly deciphered. It refers to as, "one Brammadatta (Tissa's
son) who is the legal custodian of the temple gifted to the four corners
of Lanka". The wooden bridge is under the custody of the Archaeological
Department.
The fascinating mural paintings and the frescoes appearing in the cave
ceiling have been vividly described in folk poems coming down from times
of old. In a sannasa presented to the temple by the last King of Kandy,
Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, it is recorded (as disclosed to us by the present
incumbent of the temple) that the King had decreed to have a monastery built
and gifted with lands.
(FROM A MAHAWELI NEWS LETTER)
The Island - 13 vSeptember, 2003
Photo Album
Bogoda Bridge from the
cave temple side |
Gallanda Oya below the bridge |
Bogoda Bridge from far side |
Bogoda Bridge from the
cave temple side |
Cave that King Walagamba
Used
|
Secret Tunnel inside the cave |
Tunnel Entrance |
Tunnel Entrance |
Image House of the Cave Temple |
|
