Sri Pada Mountain (Adams Peak)

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Sri Pada Temple at the top – Photo by Dr. Ashan Geeganage

The mountain of Sri Pada is one of the rare places that people of four major religions in the world worship. The mountain is situated in the Rathnapura district with a height of 7,360 feet (2,243 meters).

Although this is only the second-highest mountain, It rises majestically with a conical shape and offers an unobstructed view over land and sea. It is said that the mountain was the landmark of the ancient sea-faring Arabs, who came to Sri Lanka, to trade in gems, spices, ivory, etc., and they, having sighted the conical mountain miles offshore, prayed to God for having brought them safely to the island.

Sri Pada in the Buddhist Annals

According to Sri Lanka’s great chronicle, Mahawamsa, Buddha visited Sri Lanka three times. The last time he traveled from Kelaniya to Sri Pada, and then to Digavaphi thus consisted in the Solosmasthana of Sri Lanka. It is said that Buddha left his footprint on the rock at the peak of the mountain at the invitation of the Deity Saman (Saman Deviyo).

Deity Saman is recorded as having met the Buddha on his first visit to the island when he visited Mahiyangana to drive away the Tribe of Yakkas. Saman became a stream-entrant (sotapanna) after listening to the Buddha. Deity Saman then requested an object of worship, and Buddha gave him a handful of hairs with which he enshrined on a dagaba at Mahiyangana.

The Theravada Buddhists of Sri Lanka later made Deity Saman the guardian of their land and their religion. With the rise of Mahayana Buddhism, Saman developed into Samantabhadra, one of the four principal bodhisattvas of Mahayana. Like his later manifestation, Samanta is usually depicted crowned and bejeweled, holding a lotus in his right hand and accompanied by a white elephant. At Weligama, an ancient port on Sri Lanka’s south coast, there is a 12-foot-high statue which some believe is the figure of Samantabhadra carved out of a huge moss-covered bolder. This statue is now called Kushtarajagala. It is thought that the Pilgrims from India and northern Sri Lanka disembarking at Weligama were greeted by this bodhisattva figure as they set out on the long trek to Sri Pada.

The Summit

The summit of the mountain is a small plateau, and according to measurements made by Lieut. Malcolm (the first European to ascend the mountain in 1816),” it is 74 ft. in length and 24 ft. in breadth” the total area being 1,776 sq. ft. On the top of the Peak broad steps lead up to a walled enclosure containing the rock over which is a tower-like structure.

Sri Pada (Adams Peak) — Symbolic Representation of the foot print of Buddha
image source : sripada.org

According to the Englishman John Davy, who visited the summit in 1817,

… It is a superficial hollow, five feet three inches and three-quarters long, and between two’ feet seven inches and two feet five inches wide. It is ornamented with a margin of brass, studded with a few gems, of little value: it is covered with a roof, which is fastened to the rock by four iron chains, and supported by four pillars; and it is surrounded by a low wall. The roof was lined with coloured cloths, and its margin being decked with flowers, and streamers, it made a very gay appearance. The cavity .certainly bears a coarse resemblance to the figure of the human foot: were it really ah impression, it is not a very flattering one, or the encomiums which are lavished on the beauty of the feet of Boodhoo are very improperly bestowed. ….

A similar print in Thailand is believed to have the imprint of the Buddha’s right foot, which is about five feet long and two feet broad. The real footprint on Adam’s Peak is believed to be set in jewels beneath the visible rock.

The soles of the Buddha’s feet are said to be flat with all the toes of equal length. On each sole, there are one hundred and eight auspicious marks (mangala lakkhana), with the wheel (chakra) as the principal mark at the center while around it are grouped figures of animals, inhabitants of various worlds, and other kinds of symbols.

Claim of Sri Pada by other Religions

Buddhists knew that this mysterious footprint had been made by the Buddha long before (as far as the 1st century BC) any other religion was introduced to the country. But in succeeding centuries other faiths, Islam, Hinduism, and Christianity were to lay claim to it. Muslims believe the footprint to be that of Adam (hence the name Adam’s Peak); Christians, that of St. Thomas, the disciple Jesus; and Hindus, that of the god Siva. The Tamil name of the rock Civan-oli-pata (the mountain path of Siva’s light) or Svargarohanam (assent to heaven).

The first historical mention of Sri Pada comes during the reign of Vijayabahu (1055-1110 CE). Earliest historical evidence in chronicles and inscriptions It is recorded that the king having seen the difficulties undergone by the pilgrims on their way to worship the Sri Pathula (Buddha’s Foot Print) on Samanthakuta dedicated the village named ‘Gilimale’ to provide for their needs. Stone inscriptions of Vijayabahu have been found at Gilimale and Ambagamuwa confirming the statement of the chronicle. But it was King Nissanka Malla (1187-1196 CE) who reigned from Polonnaruwa and started the pilgrimage after he ascended the mountain with his fourfold army with great faith and devotion.

At Baghawa Lena — at Sripada Temple, Adam's Peak.

Nissanka Lena — at Sripada Temple, Adam's Peak.

the ancient gal wangediya — at Sripada Temple, Adam's Peak.

Getham Pahana— at Sripada Temple, Adam's Peak.

Sri Pada during European Colonists and Kandyan Kingdom

At the beginning of the 16th century, the Portuguese conquered Sri Lanka’s maritime provinces and forbade Buddhists living under their jurisdiction and those coming from overseas from going to Sri Pada. By way of contrast, the king of Kandy in whose realm the mountain was situated, allowed Christians to enter his territory to make the pilgrimage. When the Dutch took over the maritime provinces in 1656 they proved to be less bigoted than the Portuguese but fear that pilgrims might act as spies for the king of Kandy led them, if not to ban, then at least to discourage visits by levying a heavy tax on pilgrims. For nearly two centuries Sinhalese Buddhists living in the low country could see the sacred mountain, and worship it from afar but not go there.

In 1581 the crown prince of Kandy murdered his father, King Mayadunne of Sitawaka, and proclaimed himself King Rajasinghe I. When he asked the Buddhist monks how he could wash away the wrong deed done by him the monks replied that he could not get away from this and he should take responsibility for his action. But the Hindu priests on the other hand were willing to perform a puja to help the king ease his guilty conscience and so he converted to Hinduism. As a result, the Buddhist priests were driven off Sri Pada and it was handed to the ‘Andis’ (a non-brahminical Siva sect) from South India and they administered it for the next 160 years. Later King Kirti Sri Rajasinha (1747-1781 CE), restored Buddhist ownership and appointed Ven. Welivitiye Saranankara Sangharaja Maha Thera, to look after Buddhist interests of the holy mountain. He also donated the village of Kuttapitiya and a copper plate charter in support of this donation is still in existence.

Sri Pada Season

The Sri Pada season starts from the full moon of December and ends on the full moon of April. Generally, it takes about five to six hours to climb to the top. During this season many shops pop up on the way to the mountain top offering all sorts of food and refreshments. There are first aid centers manned by volunteers on the way. Most people climb by night to reach the mountain top to watch the “Ira Sevaya”, the sunrise over the sea. But this time can be quite crowded, especially during the weekend and towards the end of the season. It’s not rare were you have to spend 5-10 minutes standing on a single step until the crowd moves on. The top of the mountain is quite windy and chilly.

Trails (Routes) to Sri Pada Mountain

The Temple at the top of Sri Pada Mountain
Photo licensed under CC BY 2.0 by Stefan Krasowski

There are six trails leading to Sri Pada; namely, Hatton-Nallathanni, Ratnapura-Palabaddala, Kuruwita-Erathna, Deraniyagala-Udamaliboda (Ihala-Maliboda), Rajmale – Murraywatta and Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa.

[1] Hatton-Nallathanni Trail

The most popular path is the Hatton-Nallathanni path (climb starting from Nallatanniya) called the ‘Raja Mawatha’ in ancient times because many kings have used this path to reach the mountain top. This is the most common path used by the average pilgrim. There are resting places with small boutiques every few hundred steps during the season. There are several ways to get to Hatton. You can take a bus or the train from Colombo. From Hatton Once at Hatton take one of the numerous private buses to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about 33 kilometres.

Trail Head : Nallathanniya
Elevation Gain: 1000m (Elevation at trailhead: 1250m | Elevation at trail end: 2250 m)
Total Length: 5km
Difficulty Level: moderate
Approximate time: 5 – 7 hours

[2] Ratnapura-Palabaddala Trail

The oldest is the Ratnapura path (climb starting from Erathna), popularly known as the ‘difficult path’. This is a beaten track infested with leaches and very few use this path. The ‘Seetagangula’ (the icy water river) which is the parent of Kalu Ganga is found halfway through the climb. This route is definitely the path to take for an experienced trekker who wants to avoid crowds.

The most popular landmarks such as Lihini Hela, Ehela Kanuwa, Heramitipana, Indikatupana, Seetha Gangula (river) is found on Ratnapura route.

Trail Head : Palabedda Rajamaha Viharaya
Elevation Gain: 2000m (Elevation at Trail Head: 250m | Elevation at Trail End: 2250m)
Total Length: 8.5 km
Difficulty Level: moderate+
Approximate time: 8 – 12 hours

[3] Kuruwita-Erathna Trail

This is the 3rd most popular trail. This trail is much more difficult to tackle than the most popular Hatton-Nallathanni route. The trail conditions are similar to the Ratnapura-Palabedda trail. The path is a rough track with boulders and rocks except for a few places with steps. The trail passes the famous Warnagala Rock and the beautiful Warnagala Waterfall.

Unfortunately, most of the water from this stream is diverted to a private mini hydro station leaving only a small stream of water for the waterfall. Warnagla Falls’s full beauty is seen during the rainy season which is also the off-season for Sri Pada pilgrimages.

Trail Head : Adavikanda Bridge
Elevation Gain: 1810 m (Elevation at Trail Head: 440 m | Elevation at Trail End: 2250m)
Total Length: 12 km
Difficulty Level: moderate+
Approximate time: 8 – 12 hours

[4] Deraniyagala-Udamaliboda (Ihala-Maliboda) Trail

This route is much tougher than the other routes above and the least traveled. most of the trail is through the dense forest of peak wilderness sanctuary on a narrow footpath with rough underfoot conditions. This trek involves crossing several streams with the risk of flash floods. You will find no habitation on the first 8m of the strenuous. The first 8km is nowhere close to any human presence and this remoteness also adds to its difficulty.

The trail starts at Pandeniya River Crossing, Near Dikelikanda Village, Udamaliboda. This trail connects to the Kuruwita trail halfway and there is also a connection to the Ratnapura trail

Trail Head : Pandeniya River Crossing, Near Dikelikanda Village, Udamaliboda
Elevation Gain: 1650 m (Elevation at Trail Head: 600 m | Elevation at Trail End: 2250m)
Total Length: 12 km
Difficulty Level: Extream
Approximate time: 8 – 12 hours

[5] Rajmale – Murraywatta Trail

The starting point of the trail is the upper part of Rajamale, the highest point of the famous Murray Estate. To reach Rajamale you need to travel about 5 km from Nallathanniya. This distance can be reached by a vehicle with a high ground clearance since this is quite a rough track.

The specialty of this route is that it is the only Sri Pada route that can be traveled at the shortest distance and at the lowest height. When traveling from Nallathanniya to Rajamale, you can travel up to a height of 1610 meters above sea level by vehicle. The height of the hike is about 640 meters. Considering the distance, the trail is a small distance of about 4 kilometers

After starting the journey from Rajamale, one has to travel through a forest road. The trail is mostly through a plain and the journey is along quite an easy path. Unlike other routes, there are very limited streams to get water here, so it is extremely important to carry enough water with you.

After traveling about 2 kilometers, you will find Sandagalathenna. It is a very beautiful large stone plateau and you could get a fantastic view of the Sri Pada from this rock.

Then one has to walk along a slightly higher slope and after traveling for about a kilometer it joins the Hatton Nallathanniya road.

Trail Head : End of Rajamale Estate
Elevation Gain: 640m (Elevation at Trail Head: 1610m | Elevation at Trail End: 2250m)
Total Length: 5 km
Difficulty Level: modarate+
Approximate time: 3-5 hours

Elevation Gain : 640m (Elevation at Trail Head: 1610m | Elevation at Trail End: 2250m)
Total Length : 5 km
Approximate time : 2 hours

[6] Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa

This trail was newly created in 1933 by a person called Dingiri Kankanama of Ratnapura but very rarely used. However, this is one of the shortest trails to Sri Pada with plenty of shades and water streams on the way.

The route starts at Mukkuwatta Junction (6.7325, 80.5340) by a Kovil. After traveling 3 km on this winding road you reach the trail start near a small Buddha image house (6.7446, 80.5324). After traveling a short distance down into the tea estate from the image house, you will reach the Rath Ganga River. Somarathne Ambalama, the only ambalama on this route is found just as you cross the Rath Ganga river.

Next, you will come across the Wewel Dola stream and then the Wellakkara Cave. This cave is not a suitable place to spend the night, but it is a suitable place to take shelter in light rain. Between 3-4 kilometers of the journey, after the destination of Rapath Kanda Mountain, you will reach Bena Samanala Valley. It is quite a plain area and suitable for camping.

Then comes the Bathia (Bothia) stream. There is evidence that a place known as Bathia Ambalama existed about 30 meters away from the stream. After that, Bena Samanala mountain becomes visible.

After coming through a difficult path from the Bena Samanala Kanda viewpoint, Sri Pada Peak becomes visible for the first time. After that, the Seetha Gangula stream unique to the Mukkuwatta route is found. After crossing the Seetha Gangula, you will find Indikatu Pana or Vushimale on the Mukkuwatta road. After performing the relevant rituals at this place with a small Buddha statue, one has to climb a mountain through a strenuous route.

After the total distance of approximately 7 km you will reach the point which offers the clearest view of Sri Pada on this route. The specialty of this place is that you get a chance to see Sri Pada mountain from an angle that is not seen on the other routes.

Trail Head : End of Dehenakanda Estate
Elevation Gain: 1475 m (Elevation at Trail Head: 775m | Elevation at Trail End: 2250m)
Total Length: 15 km
Difficulty Level: Extream
Approximate time: 12-15 hours

More Information

Sri Pada or Adam’s Peak, Sri Lanka ( http://sripada.org/ )
Sri Pada – Buddhism’s Most Sacred Mountain, Sri Lanka (http://www.metta.lk/)

Also See

Solosmasthana – The Sixteen Buddhist Sacred Sites Hollowed by Buddha

Images from the Past ( from Images of Ceylon)

Map of Sri Pada (Adams Peak)

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Travel Directions to Sri Pada (Adams Peak)

Route from Colombo to Sri Pada (up to Erathna Foot Path)	Route from Colombo to Sri Pada (upto Erathna Foot Path)
Though : Kaduwela – Avissawella – Ginigathena – Nallathanniya distance : 140 km Travel time : 4 hours. Driving directions : see on google map	distance :95 km Travel time : 2.5 hours Driving directions : see on google map