Western Monastery "G" in Anuradhapura

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Out of the usual path of the pilgrim in the quieter parts of the sacred city of Anuradhapura are the Western Monasteries or the Tapovana, claimed to be archaeologically as well as ideologically one of the most intriguing of our ancient sites.

The Least Desireable Area of Anuradhapura

It is said that the western suburbs of the ancient capital city of Anuradhapura were the least desirable quarter. Here were the burial grounds, cremation sites, and places of execution, and here also dwelt the lowliest communities whose duty it was to tend these. In this unpleasant and deprived neighborhood settled a community of monks in an angry protest against worldliness, which they believed had desecrated the older foundations. These monks screened themselves off from public observation by building head-high walls. They ate rice with only the rank and bitter oil of the margosa tree for relish and clothed themselves in robes made of scraps stripped off the corpses. They were forest-dwelling meditating monks who came into prominence in the seventh century and were frequently mentioned during the next two centuries.

The Western Monasteries

The main component of the hermitages of these monks were the padhanagaras or the meditation houses, which were beautifully built of well-proportioned and meticulously- dressed plain stone. The distinguishing feature of these monuments is that they are made up of two sections- a residential pasada or kuti at the back and an open platform or malaka in front- joined together by a relatively narrow passage or stone bridge. Its foundations were built in such a manner that a moat surrounded the platforms. These structures also incorporate a pool and have the main entrance on the east. The main entrance is an elaborate porched doorway built of heavy stone slabs while the subsidiary entrances have similar but smaller porches.

Architecturally the habitations of this Tapovana sect also called Pamsukulin are generic and are duplicated in many other monasteries of the fraternity as at Ritigala and Arnakele. However, according to scholars, the monasteries at Anuradhapura represent the padhanagara in its most developed form.

Urinal Stones

A curious feature of these monasteries and one which may have had some ritual significance is the ornamented urinal stones. These urinals are the only elaborately decorated feature in these monasteries, which are otherwise characteristically devoid of ornamentation except of the simplest kind.

Much is said of these. Godakumbura believed that some of these sculptured stones were not specially turned out for use here but were prized out of earlier buildings and adapted for use here. Scholars who argue against this hypothesis say that some of these urinal stones depict the image of Kuvera, the god of wealth. – it was the intention of the sculptor to say that these ascetics have given up their worldly desires and totally rejected them.

First Mentions

The Tapovana is first mentioned in the reign of Kassapa IV (898-914 CE); it is said that this king built a dwelling there for the Pamsukulika order of monks. Kassapa V (914-923 CE) built the Deva dwelling in the Thapovanaya. This ascetic grove was also known as the ‘grove of the penitents.’ During the reign of Udaya III (946-954 CE), some court officials who had cause to fear the king sought refuge here only to be followed by the king and his henchmen and beheaded. Outraged, the Thapowanaya community departed as a group for Ruhuna. The citizens, as well as the army rose in revolt and scaled the tall Ratnaprasada in which the king and his supporters had in turn taken shelter, beheaded them, and tossed their heads from the windows. Not until desperate emissaries from the king had followed the ascetics to Ruhuna and persuaded them back to accept the king’s abject apology was peace restored.

Design Architecture of Monastery G

The Western Monastery “G” in Anuradhapura lies right at the roundabout where the Watawandana Road joins the Arippu Road, partially hidden from view due to the scrub jungle.

Like other double-platform padanaghara structures, the main building is designed with two platforms linked by a stone bridge and surrounded by a high brick wall on a stone-faced terrace. The eastern entrance features a roofed porch supported by pillars, while smaller northern and southern posterns open to raised promenades. The front platform, faced in granite and decorated with balustrades, guardstones, and drainage slabs, leads via the bridge to a second platform built directly on rock.

This second platform, supported by twenty-four square pillars, may house a two-storey brick structure roofed with tiles. Finds here include tiles, iron nails, a lamp pillar, a lotus-petal pedestal, a trough of undressed stone, and Dutch East India Company copper coins (1734–1790), discovered long after the building’s decline.

Two outbuildings (G2 and possibly G3–G4) stand to the north, with a pillared hall, moonstone steps, balustrades, and a nearby lavatory complex. The ruins, with their moats, ponds, and carved details, suggest both ceremonial elegance and everyday practicality within the palace grounds.

Western Monasteries Discovered in Thapovana in Anuradhapura

Padhanaghara monasteries found west of the Ancient City of Anuradhapura are identified as

Important Information for Foreign Tourists Visiting Sites at Sacred City of Anuradhapura

Most of the more popular sites in Anuradhapura strictly check for tickets from tourists, while the less-visited sites tend to be more relaxed due to the lack of staff. However, tourists should be cautious, as some unscrupulous tuk-tuk drivers may attempt to exploit this situation.

They sometimes offer to take foreign tourists along routes where ticket checks are less common or even try to collect the entrance fee themselves, claiming they will purchase the tickets on the tourists’ behalf. Tourists are strongly advised not to fall for such scams, as this can lead to unnecessary complications with site security or the police.

Information on the Anuradhapura Cultural Heritage Ticket and where and how to purchase can be found here

Tapovana Monastery (Western Monasteries) in Anuradhapura - අනුරාධපුර තපෝවනය

References

Bandaranayake, S., 1974. Sinhalese Monastic Architecture – The Viharas of Anuradhapura. Leiden: Brill.
Hocart, A. M. (1924). Memoirs of the Archaeological Survey of Ceylon: Vol. I–VI (1st ed.). Archaeological Survey of Ceylon.

Also See

Anuradhapura – The city of the God Kings
Solosmasthana – The Sixteen Buddhist Sacred Sites Hallowed by Buddha
Atamasthana – The Eight Sacred Sites in Anuradhapura

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Driving Directions to Anuradhapura

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Bus

Anuradhapura can be conveniently reached by bus, train, or private transport. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate from the Colombo Fort Main Bus Station. In addition, luxury buses departing from various locations in Colombo travel via Anuradhapura to Vavuniya and Jaffna; these require advance online booking and generally operate overnight, arriving at their final destinations early in the morning.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Train

Five daily trains operate from Colombo Fort Railway Station to Anuradhapura. Typically, the first train departs at 9.40 a.m. and the last at 8.30 p.m. The journey takes approximately four to five hours, depending on the number of stops made by the particular service.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Car or Van

Anuradhapura can be accessed from Colombo via several routes, with the two primary corridors running through Puttalam and Kurunegala. The Puttalam route passes the scenic Wilpattu area. From Kurunegala, there are two main approaches: the more commonly used route via Dambulla and an alternative route via Galgamuwa. Among all options, the Kurunegala–Dambulla route (Route 2) is the most frequently used.

Route 01 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route 02 from Colombo to Anuradhapura
Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route 03 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route from Kandy to Anuradhapura
Through : Katunayake Expressway – Narammala – Wariyapola – Padeniya – Thambuthegama Distance from Colombo: 203 km Travel Time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Katugastota – Matale – Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 136 km Travel Time: 3.5 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps