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Ritigala Mountain Range covered with early morning cloudes

Sri Lanka is home to a wealth of archaeological treasures, many of which remain relatively untouched by mass tourism. While renowned ancient cities like Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa dazzle with their grandeur, lesser-known sites such as Ritigala, tucked away in the island’s North Central Province, offer a uniquely tranquil and mysterious atmosphere. These ruins, partially enveloped by dense forest, represent one of Sri Lanka’s most distinctive monastic complexes.

Location and Geography

Located about 40 kilometers (25 miles) southeast of Anuradhapura, the Ritigala Mountain—known in ancient texts as Arittha Pabbata—rises to 2,513 feet, making it the highest peak in northern Sri Lanka. It stretches roughly three miles in a north-south direction and is often cloaked in mist during the rainy season, adding to its mystique. According to legend, Ritigala was the point from which Hanuman leapt back to India to deliver news to Rama of Sita’s location.

Historical Background

The ruins in Ritigala dates back to at least the 1st century BCE. Inscriptions in nearby caves indicate that King SaKing Saddhatissa (137-119 BCE), brother of the famous King Dutugemunu, may have established the first monastic settlement here. The site later gained prominence under King Sena I (833-853), who built a monastery for the Pansakulika monks—a sect of ascetic Buddhists who followed austere practices, including wearing robes made from rags or shrouds collected from cemeteries.

Around the 8th century, a group of monks broke away from the Abhayagiri monastery and formed their own sect known as the Pansakulikas, or “Rag-Robe Wearers.” Their name reflected their commitment to one of the Buddha’s thirteen ascetic practices (dhutanga): wearing robes made from discarded rags, often sourced from cemeteries. This choice suggests that the Pansakulikas were reformists, challenging the perceived luxury and complacency of urban monastic life. However, the architectural remains of their monasteries indicate that they were more than just a retreat to forest asceticism.

For nearly two centuries, the Pansakulikas enjoyed great esteem among both royalty and the general public. Over time, however, their strict asceticism gave way to wealth and influence, as they amassed large estates. By the 12th century, the sect had fractured into two competing factions. During the reign of King Vijayabahu I (1070-1110 CE), efforts to reform and reunify the Buddhist monastic order led to the confiscation of their holdings. In response, the Pansakulikas withdrew from Polonnaruwa, and shortly afterward, they vanished from historical records.

Unique Architectural Features

The ruins at Ritigala span approximately 120 acres and include some 50 double-platform structures, meditation paths, and waterworks. What makes these ruins stand out is their unusual architectural style, which departs from the typical stupas and image houses seen elsewhere in Sri Lanka.

Double Platforms: Known as padhanaghara, these consist of two rectangular stone platforms aligned in the same direction and connected by a narrow stone bridge. They were likely used for meditation or rituals, though their exact purpose remains uncertain.
Walkways with Roundabouts: Long, paved walkways include roundabouts—a rare and unexplained feature in Ritigala monastic architecture. These may have served as meditative routes or processional paths.
Stone-Lined Tank: A large artificial tank, built by damming two mountain streams, would have supplied water for drinking and bathing. The bund, paved with stones, also suggests the monks may have managed water for local agriculture.
Urinal Stones: Curiously, the only decorative elements at Ritigala are elaborately carved urinal stones. This is a common feature in most padhanaghara temples of Anuradhapura kingdom.
Reception and Refectory Areas: A large rectangular refectory features a sunken stone courtyard with grinding stones and a stone trough, indicating that food was prepared onsite rather than obtained through daily alms rounds.

Exploring the Ruins

Visitors begin their journey at the reservoir before crossing a bridge and reaching the first buildings. Paths meander through the jungle, some leading to caves still inhabited by meditating monks. The main trail, paved with stone and interspersed with roundabouts and steps, leads to several key monastic structures.

There is no strict route; you can go wandering off the main path and along footpaths to find secluded conserved padanaghara structures having the typical double platforms and a striking stone bridge. Thick vegetation surrounds the site, and wildlife—especially snakes—necessitates caution. The quiet, forested setting makes Ritigala an ideal retreat for reflection and offers a glimpse into an austere spiritual tradition now lost to time.

How to Get There

The turnoff to Ritigala lies on the Anuradhapura–Polonnaruwa road, about 7 km from Ganewalpola and 16 miles from Habarana, between the 6th and 7th mileposts. From the turnoff, an unpaved but drivable road leads approximately 3 miles to the ruins, which are located halfway up the eastern slope of the mountain.

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Map of Ritigala Ruins

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Travel Directions to Ritigala Ruins

Route from Colombo to Ritigala	Route from Anuradhapura to Ritigala
Through : Kelaniya – Ambepussa – Kurunegala – Habarana Distance : 190 km Time to spend : 2 – 2.5 hours including the climb Travel time : 4.5 hours. Driving directions : see on google map	Through : Maradankadawala Distance : 50 Travel time : 1 hour. Driving directions : see on google map