Panama Kudumbigala Monastery | AmazingLanka.com

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The Kudumbigala Monastery, established in the third century BCE during the reign of King Devanampiyatissa, is a magnificent archaeological and spiritual site in the jungles near Panama in the Ampara District. It served as a sanctuary for Buddhist monks seeking solitude away from the ancient kingdoms of Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa.

Situated at the rugged junction of Kumana National Park and the Kudumbigala-Panama Wildlife Sanctuary, the Kudumbigala Monastery stands as one of the most remarkable rock monasteries representing Sri Lanka’s ancient forest-dwelling monastic tradition. Located approximately 24 kilometers (15 miles) south of the village of Panama in the Ampara District, this extensive archaeological complex covers more than 240 hectares (600 acres) of dense jungle inhabited by wildlife.

Referred to in ancient texts as the Chetiyapabbata Vihara of Rohana, the site reaches its most dramatic point at the Balumgala rock, where distinctive cylindrical stupas overlook a vast expanse of forest stretching toward the distant Indian Ocean.

Discovery and Various Explorations

Scholarly interest in the region dates back to the 19th century, when Hugh Nevill explored the Panama Pattu area and identified ruins while investigating local traditions. The site was later more systematically documented by C. W. Nicholas, who identified Kudumbigala as an important pre-Christian monastic establishment. (Rambukwella, 1963)

In May 1963, a major expedition led by Shirley Perera surveyed the rock formations and discovered caves containing ancient paintings (Rambukwella, 1963, 1966). By the late 1960s, the Department of Archaeology had initiated systematic investigations. In 1968, officials recorded that the site consisted of numerous rocky outcrops and boulders, with caves featuring drip ledges and two ruined dagobas situated atop the largest rock. (R. H. De Silva, 1980)

A more detailed exploration was conducted between September 5 and 25, 1975. During this expedition, several notable caves—such as Manarama Lena, Jamitha Tissa Lena, and Sonapabbatha Lena—were documented. Ten inscriptions were also copied, contributing significantly to the site’s epigraphical record (De Silva, 1977). In more recent times, the scholar-monk Ellawala Medhananda Thero has carried out extensive research at Kudumbigala, identifying 105 caves and documenting an additional ten inscriptions that had previously gone unrecorded. (Medhananda Thero, 2005)

The Ruins of a Forest Hermitage

The architectural character of Kudumbigala is defined by its seamless integration with the natural rock environment. The site is especially renowned for its cylindrical stupas, a rare form in Sri Lankan archaeology believed to have been inspired by the Dharmarajika Stupa in Saranath, India (Medhananda Thero, 2005). The principal stupa on the Sigiri Balumgala rock is constructed on a square platform measuring approximately 13.5 by 13.5 meters (44 by 44 feet), using brickwork. (Medhananda Thero, 2005)

The monastery complex forms an intricate network of religious structures and residential caves. More than 200 caves—some estimates suggesting over 500—once accommodated meditating arahants of the Anuradhapura period. Among the most notable are the Yodha Lena (Giants Cave) and Maha Sudarshana, the latter distinguished by an inscription bearing a carved Triple Gem symbol. (Medhananda Thero, 2005)

The site also features an Asanaghara (seat shrine), a quadrangular structure that likely housed a symbolic stone seat representing the Buddha prior to the widespread use of anthropomorphic statues. The discovered seat stone measures approximately 2.54 meters by 1.07 meters (8 feet 4 inches by 3 feet 6 inches). (Medhananda Thero, 2005)

The cave interiors, once elaborately decorated, exhibit evidence of artistic refinement. Archaeological findings reveal two layers of plaster: a base layer composed of clay mixed with paddy husk, and a finer ზედ layer of lime plaster. Surviving fragments of paintings depict lotus motifs and floral designs rendered in red, yellow, and green oil-based pigments. (Rambukwella, 1963)

Water management was an essential feature of the monastery. Numerous natural stone ponds, or kemas, were formed on the rock surfaces, serving both the resident monks and, to this day, local wildlife.

Inscriptions found at the site indicate that Kudumbigala flourished from the 3rd century BCE to the 7th century CE. These inscriptions mention a range of donors, including regional elites and an archer named Guta, who is recorded as having donated caves to the Sangha. (Medhananda Thero, 2005)

Treasure hunting has caused considerable damage to the site in modern times. Many stupas located on top of the rocky hills have been forcibly opened, with their central domes and relic chambers excavated in attempts to uncover valuables.

Effects of LTTE Attacks

In 1994, members of the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam carried out a brutal attack in Panama, killing 17 civilians. In the aftermath, Kudumbigala was abandoned, as adequate protection could not be ensured. During this period, acts of desecration were also reported, including the pouring of tar over the head of a Buddha statue, which served as a warning to the resident monks to vacate the monastery.

The broader context of the conflict involved the displacement of populations across the northeastern region of Sri Lanka. This period of instability persisted until 2009, when the conflict came to an end following the military defeat of the LTTE.

Current Status

Today, Kudumbigala once again functions as a forest hermitage, attracting monks who seek the same solitude once embraced by ancient arahants. It has also become a destination for local pilgrims and visitors.

At present, the site is managed with an emphasis on preserving its spiritual and natural environment. Visitors are encouraged to respect the privacy of resident monks and are often accompanied by local guides due to the challenging terrain. The area remains a habitat for wildlife, including leopards, bears, and elephants, maintaining both its natural richness and inherent danger.

Story of the Maithree Upasaka : (Hero of Kudumbigala)

Maithree Upasaka was born a Catholic in Negombo. During his employment with the Ceylon Railway, he encountered aspects of the hidden history of the Sinhalese civilization—an experience that profoundly transformed his life. In 1954, he arrived at Kudumbigala Monastery, where he undertook the arduous task of clearing and restoring the long-neglected site.

From that time onward, he chose a life of solitude and devotion, residing at Kudumbigala, engaging in meditation, and dedicating himself to the protection and preservation of this ancient heritage for future generations. He passed away on the 10th of September, 1971. Today, he is remembered as a solitary guardian who safeguarded this historic site during a time when it received little institutional attention.

Until 1994, the remains of the Maithree Upasaka were displayed in a rock cave as he wished. Then the LTTE terrorists smashed the glass display and threw his remains into the jungle. They were later recovered through the efforts of a dedicated researcher, ensuring that his memory and legacy would not be lost.

References

De Silva, R. H. (1980). Administration Report of the Archaeological Commissioner for the Financial Year 1968-69. Government of Sri Lanka.
De Silva, R. H. (1977). Administration Report of the Archaeological Commissioner for the years 1970-77. Government of Sri Lanka.
Medhananda Thero, E. (2005). The Sinhala Buddhist heritage in the East and the North of Shri [i.e. Sri] Lanka (1st ed.). Dayawansa Jayakody & Co.
Rambukwella, A. T. (1963). The Nittaewo: The Legendary Pygmies of Ceylon. Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, VIII (New Series)(2), 268–290.
Rambukwella, A. T. (1966). The Nittaewo of Mahalenama: A Legendary Pygmy Race. Loris : A Journal of Ceylon Wildlife, X(6), 367–370.

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Kudumbigala Monastery

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Travel Directions to Kudumbigala Monastery

The monastery lies 97 km from Ampara town and 140 km from Batticaloa town

Route from Colombo to Kudumbigala Monastery	Route from Batticaloa to Kudumbigala Monastery
Through : Southern Expressway – Buttala – Monaragala – Arugam Bay – Panama Distance :420 km Travel time : 8 hours. Driving directions : see on google map	Through : Kalmunei – Oluvil – Akkaraipattu – Pottuvil – Panama Distance :140 Travel time : 3.5 hours. Driving directions : see on google map