Bambaragasthalawa Naga Pabbata Monastery - Kumana

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Reclining Buddha statue destroyed by treasure hunters at the Bambaragasthalawa Caves inside Kumana
Photo courtesy of Dr. Ashan Geeganage

Bambaragasthalawa, the ancient Nagapabbata, is a 600-acre monastic complex in Kumana. It features an 11-meter reclining Buddha and ten stupas. Despite its history involving Arahants and royal donors, isolation has led to severe vandalism and dangerous wildlife encounters today.

Deep within the wild expanse of Kumana National Park (formerly known as Yala East), the archaeological site of Bambaragasthalawa (Bambaragastalawa) is one of the many archaeological sites in the Yala jungles. In antiquity, this site was known as Nagapabbata or Nagapawathasenasana, and it once functioned as a flourishing forest hermitage inhabited by meditating monks. Extending across more than 200–240 hectares (500–600 acres), the site forms an intricate landscape of rocky outcrops, concealed caves, and decaying stupas that have endured centuries of environmental degradation and human neglect (Medhananda Thero, 2005).

Discovery and Explorations

One of the earliest recorded explorations of the site was carried out by Hugh Nevill in the late 19th century. While searching for the legendary Nittaewo—a mythical pygmy tribe—he investigated the area known as Bambara Gala and documented the presence of inscriptions and large-scale statues (Rambukwelle, 1963).

During the 20th century, Bambaragasthalawa attracted the attention of the Department of Archaeology and was catalogued under A.S.R. Nos. 1481–1499 (Vimalananda, 1951). In May 1963, Captain Rambukwelle led the Mahalenama Expedition into this rugged terrain, which was known to be inhabited by bears and leopards. His team conducted surveys of the rock formations and observed that Bambaragasthalawa was physically connected to nearby sites such as Kudumbigala and Mahalenama through concentric ridges (Rambukwelle, 1963).

In more recent decades, the site has been extensively studied by the scholar-monk Ellawala Medhananda Thero. After decades of exploration through dense forest, he succeeded in documenting more than 34 inscriptions that had previously gone unnoticed by earlier researchers (Medhananda Thero, 2005).

The Ruins of Nagapabbata

Bambaragasthalawa is distinguished by its striking terrain of massive boulders and caves, many of which were adapted into monastic dwellings. Its most prominent feature is a colossal reclining Buddha statue measuring approximately 11 meters (36 feet) in length. Constructed using clay, brick, and lime plaster, the statue is situated within a large cave that offered protection from the elements.

Detailed measurements recorded by Medhananda Thero highlight its impressive scale: the width across the shoulders is approximately 2.87 meters (9 feet 5 inches), while the sacred feet measure about 1 meter (3 feet 3 inches) (Medhananda Thero, 2005).

Atop several rock hillocks, the remains of ten stupas have been identified (Medhananda Thero, 2005). These structures, dating from the 4th to the 8th centuries, likely served as white landmarks visible to ancient seafarers navigating the southeastern coastline. Beneath these elevated areas lie the remains of an extensive monastic complex, including a preaching hall supported by 36 stone pillars, an Asanaghara (seat shrine) with a polished stone slab measuring approximately 2.44 meters by 1.07 meters (8 feet by 3.5 feet), and a 61-meter-long (200-foot) cave divided into sections with plastered walls that once housed monks. Additional features include stone ponds (kemas), alms halls, and even ancient sanitation facilities.(Medhananda Thero, 2005).

Inscriptions discovered at the site refer to various donors, including a mercantile guild of the Kambojas and a thera named Tissamahanaga, who is also mentioned in the Rasavahini (Medhananda Thero, 2005).

Damage by Treasure Hunters and Vandalism

Despite its historical and cultural importance, Bambaragasthalawa has long suffered from the activities of treasure hunters. The reclining Buddha statue has been severely damaged, with deliberate excavation destroying parts of the head, chest, and abdomen.

The stupas situated on the hilltops have also been extensively looted. Many have been forcibly opened, leaving behind scattered bricks and fragments of the ancient structures across the rocky terrain. This widespread destruction can largely be attributed to the site’s extreme isolation, which allows such activities to occur without oversight. During Sri Lanka’s period of civil conflict, the park was effectively abandoned, further exposing its archaeological heritage to looters and poachers.

Route and Accessibility

Reaching Bambaragasthalawa remains a challenging and adventurous endeavor. As the site lies within Kumana National Park, special authorization is required, as the final section of the journey must be completed on foot. The location is several kilometers from the Kudumbigala Forest Hermitage and can be accessed via the Panama–Kumana road.

Historically, the journey involved trekking more than 16 kilometers (10 miles) through dense forest from the Yodhalipa area. Travelers must cross the Bagura plains, often relying on jeep tracks that are only navigable during the dry season. The final ascent requires climbing steep rock surfaces, where footholds have been carved directly into the stone.

The surrounding jungle is known for its population of sloth bears and leopards, making it necessary for visitors to remain alert and create noise to deter wildlife. Local folklore also speaks of the Man Mula Val, a mysterious creeper believed to disorient those who step on it, causing them to lose their way within the forest (Medhananda Thero, 2005).

The Man-Eating Leopard of Bambaragasthalawa

The untamed nature of this region has been underscored by a recent tragedy involving a leopard, the apex predator of the area. Studies indicate that the eastern sector of Kumana National Park has one of the highest leopard densities in the world, particularly around rocky terrains and cave systems that provide shelter.

In March 2026, a 43-year-old Czech monk, identified as Venerable Nanda, was killed by a leopard while meditating in a remote cave within the Bambaragasthalawa Forest Hermitage. Having first arrived in the region in 2021, he had spent approximately one year residing in these caves for meditation. Wildlife officials who discovered his body on the night of March 25 reported severe injuries to the neck and chest.

Environmentalists and authorities have consistently warned of the dangers associated with residing in such deep forest environments. Nevertheless, several monks continue to inhabit these remote areas, seeking the solitude once embraced by ancient arahants. This incident has reignited discussions regarding the risks faced by those living in these so-called “forbidden forests,” where humans and predators coexist in close and often perilous proximity.

List of Archaeological Sites inside Yala and Kumana National Parks

Akasa Chethiya
Athurumithurugala (see map below)
Athurumituruwewa
Bambaragastalawa
Bembawa
Bowattegala
Brahmanatota
Dematagala
Dikkandanegala
Divulanagoda (Veheradivulana)
Gonagala
Goyankola Mayagala
Handuneruwa
Iriyapola
Kanabiso Galge
Katupila (see map below)
Katupila Mankada (see map below)
Kiripokunahela
Mahakiriwedumagala
Kongala

The difficult terrain to reach Bambaragasthalawa inside Kumana

Ruins of Bambaragasthalawa Naga Pabbata Monastery - Kumana

Inscriptions found in the caves of Bambaragasthalawa inside Kumana

View from the Bambaragasthalawa Rocks inside Kumana

References

Medhananda Thero, E. (2005). The Sinhala Buddhist heritage in the East and the North of Shri [i.e. Sri] Lanka (1st ed.). Dayawansa Jayakody & Co.
Rambukwelle, A. (1963). The Nittaewo: The Legendary Pygmies of Ceylon. Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, VIII (new series)(2), 268–290.
Vimalananda, T. (1951). The Epigraphy and Palaeography of Ceylon Down to the 10th Century A.D. [PhD Dissertation]. SOAS University of London.

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Map of Bambaragasthalawa Naga Pabbata Monastery, Kumana

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Travel Directions to Bambaragasthalawa Naga Pabbata Monastery – Kumana

This rocky outcrop lies inside the Kumana National Park.

Entrance to Kumana is from Okanda. Although the fastest route is through the Southern Expressway, The route through Balangoda – Beragala is very scenic.

Route I from Colombo to Kumana Park Entrance at Okanda	Route II from Colombo to Kumana Park Entrance at Okanda
Through : Southern Highway – Mattala – Thanamalwila – Wellawaya – Monaragala – Potuvil – Panama – Okanda Distance :420 km Travel time : 7.30 hours. Driving directions : see on Google map	Through : Balangoda – Beragala – Wellawaya – Monaragala – Potuvil – Panama – Okanda Distance :345 km Travel time : 9.30 hours. Driving directions : see on Google map
Route from Potuvil to Kumana Park Entrance at Okanda
Through : Potuvil – Panama – Okanda Distance :32 km Travel time : 1 hours. Driving directions : see on Google map