Abhayagiri Stupa at Ancient Capital of Anuradhapura

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Abhayagiriya Stupa under restoration in 1994

Abhayagiri Stupa, a cornerstone of the Anuradhapura Kingdom, was once the centerpiece of a vast monastic complex. Standing as one of antiquity’s tallest brick structures, this majestic 1st-century BCE monument symbolizes spiritual resilience and showcases ancient Sri Lankan engineering, offering travelers a fascinating glimpse into ancient Buddhist heritage.

Abhayagiri Stupa belongs to the aramic complex of Abhayagiriya Viharaya, which was constructed during the reign of King Vattagamini Abaya (commonly known as King Valagamba) in the 1st century BCE.

Gigantic Size of the Stupa

Today, the main attraction of this aramic complex is the massive Abhayagiri Stupa, which stands at 74.98 meters to the tip of the damaged spire. It is the second-largest stupa on the island today. According to the 5th-century traveler and Chinese monk Fa-Hsien’s descriptions, this stupa was 400 feet (122 meters) in height and was decorated with gold and silver and studded with all kinds of jewels. There has also been a 20-foot (6.1-meter) high Buddha statue made out of green jade.

This monument carries special importance in ancient Sri Lankan stupas, as the top portions of the original stupa (known as the hatharas kotuwa) still survive after thousands of years of negligence, giving a glimpse of what it would have looked like a thousand years ago.

Misidentification by the British

The British erroneously identified Jethawanaramaya as Abhayagiriya between 1873 CE and 1874 CE (Seneviratna, 1994). Therefore, when older documents are referred to, this fact needs to be kept in mind.

Current Restoration Work

Today there is a massive effort by the archeological department to restore this stupa to its original glory without destroying the archeological value. The work has been painstakingly slow due to the lack of funds. As you can see in the pictures, the stupa is still covered by grass and trees growing on it which is more like a mound of earth.

In the Beginning

The story of the birth of this aramic complex is very interesting. According to the chronicles, soon after the King Vattagamini Abaya ascended to the throne in 104 BC, a Tamil invasion took place.

The new king, unable to withstand the attack, was retreating from the capital. At this time a Jain monk was residing in the area where Abhayagiri stands today. When the king was passing this area, the Jain monk named Geri shouted insultingly “Lo the great black Sinhala king is in flight”.

The king ignored this comment, but when he came back to Anuradhapura after 14 years after defeating the invaders, he had not forgotten this incident. The king razed this hermitage to the ground, built a massive stupa and 12 buildings, and offered it to Mahathissa Thero. The stupa was named by coining the two rival names Abaya (the king’s name) and Geri (the Jain monk)—the Abayagiri.

Later, this vihara became a rival to Mahavihara. Mahaviharians were followers of pure Theravada Buddhism, and the priests at the Abayagiri were open to more ideas and followed the principles of both Theravada and Mahayana teachings.

Discovery and Historical Records

Ivers reports that in 1877, extensive digging of a shaft was done with the permission of the Anunayake Unnanse in search of books that were said to be deposited inside the relic chambers. A tunnel was dug 33 feet above the salapathala maluwa for a length of 54 yards towards the center of the stupa. Thereafter, a vertical shaft had been dug even below the Salapathala Maluwa, 43 feet, 3 inches deep. However, no significant relics had been discovered. The stones, beads, shells, etc., found in the course of the excavation had been replaced by the Anunayaka Unnanse, and the tunnel had been closed with brickwork. (Ivers, 1899)

The stupa is approximately 1150 feet (350 meters) in circumference, and its original height was 400 feet (122 meters), according to the records made by the Chinese monk Fa-Hsien. This gigantic, solid work of bricks had been plastered with a thick coating of lime mortar. There were still parts of this plaster to be seen over the Dagaba at certain spots when it was discovered. This Dagaba has an extensive square, Salapatala Maluwa, which is 600 feet by 600 feet (183 by 183 meters). This raised ground laid with slabs is enclosed by a half wall on all sides. There has been a rampart around the Weli Maluwa that adjoins the platform, and the width of this compound is 50 feet (15.2 meters). There are four entrances where guard houses have been put up, through which the pilgrims and visitors have to gain admission into the sacred premises. The entrance on the west leads directly to Ruwanweli Dagaba (Harischandra, 1908).

Anuradhapura Sacred City and Its Ruins—Opening Hours

There are no specific times for most of the sites. You can visit the great monasteries of the pre-Christian era from morning to dusk any day of the year. However, currently functioning major stupas and other holy sites where pilgrims come to worship are open till about 9-10 PM.

Anuradhapura Ancient City Ruins—Ticket Prices / Entrance Fees

All foreign tourists are required to purchase a ticket to visit the sacred city of Anuradhapura. The Anuradhapura Cultural Heritage Ticket provides access to most of the sacred city’s heritage sites and ruins, though it does not include entry to the Sri Maha Bodhi and Isurumuniya, which require separate tickets for tourists. With this ticket, visitors can explore the Ruwanweli Seya together with the surrounding ruins, including the Lovamahapaya and the remains of both the vast Abhayagiri Monastic Complex and the Jetavanaramaya Monastic Complex. The ticket also covers other important monuments within the city, including Thuparamaya, Lankaramaya, and all other sites.

Entry to the Anuradhapura Archaeological Museum, as well as the museums at Jetavanaramaya and Abhayagiri, is not covered by the cultural heritage ticket. Each of these museums requires a separate entry ticket, which can be purchased directly at the respective entrances.

Most of the more popular sites in Anuradhapura strictly check for tickets from tourists, while the less-visited sites tend to be more relaxed due to the lack of staff. However, tourists should be cautious, as some unscrupulous tuk-tuk drivers may attempt to exploit this situation. They sometimes offer to take visitors along routes where ticket checks are less common or even try to collect the entrance fee themselves, claiming they will purchase the tickets on the visitor’s behalf. Travelers are strongly advised not to fall for such scams, as this can lead to unnecessary complications with site security or the police.

Where to Buy Tourist Tickets to Anuradhapura Sacred City

The most convenient way to purchase the tickets is online through the Central Cultural Fund ticket portal. Physical tickets could be purchased from few ticket counters located in various places in the sacred city, such as ;

At the main Anuradhapura Archaeological Museum
At the Jetawanarama Museum
At the Abhayagiri Museum

Anuradhapura Cultural Heritage Tickets	Price per Head
Foreign – Adult	USD 30.00
Foreign – Children (3-12 Years)	USD 15.00
Foreign (SAARC) – Adult and Children	USD 15.00
Locals	Free

Abayagiri Stupa under restoration in 1995

Abayagiri Stupa under restoration in 2008

Abayagiri Stupa Stupa under restoration in 2008

Abayagiri Stupa after restoration in 2015

Abayagiri Stupa A carving of "Kalpa Wrukshaya" on a steele at one of the Vahalkada

Abayagiri Stupa The circular pond at the entrance

References

Seneviratna, A., 1994. Ancient Anuradhapura. 1st ed. Colombo: Archaeological Survey Department, Sri Lanka., pp 162-164
Devendra, D.T., 1952. Guide to Anuradhapura. 2nd ed. Colombo: [Govt. Press], pp.31-33.
Harischandra B.W., 1908. The Sacred City of Anuradhapura. With Forty-six Illustrations. 1st ed. Colombo: Brahmachari Walisingha Harischandra, pp.53-57.
Ievers, R.W., 1899. Manual of the North-Central Province, Ceylon. Colombo: G.J.A. Skeen, Govt. Printer.
Wikramagamage, C., 2004. Heritage of Rajarata: Major natural, cultural, and historic sites. Colombo. Central Bank of Sri Lanka. pp.95-97.
Smither, J. and Wikramagamage, C., 1993. Architectural Remains, Anurádhapura, Ceylon; comprising the dágabas and certain other ancient ruined structures. Measured, drawn and described by J.G. Smither. 2nd ed. (revised) Colombo: Academy of Sri Lankan Culture, pp.60-67.

Also See

Anuradhapura – The city of the God Kings
Solosmasthana – The Sixteen Buddhist Sacred Sites Hallowed by Buddha
Atamasthana – The Eight Sacred Sites in Anuradhapura

Photos before restoration from www.imagesofceylon.com

Map of Abhayagiri Stupa

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Driving Directions to Abhayagiriya (Anuradhapura)

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Bus

Anuradhapura can be conveniently reached by bus, train, or private transport. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate from the Colombo Fort Main Bus Station. In addition, luxury buses departing from various locations in Colombo travel via Anuradhapura to Vavuniya and Jaffna; these require advance online booking and generally operate overnight, arriving at their final destinations early in the morning.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Train

Five daily trains operate from Colombo Fort Railway Station to Anuradhapura. Typically, the first train departs at 9.40 a.m. and the last at 8.30 p.m. The journey takes approximately four to five hours, depending on the number of stops made by the particular service.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Car or Van

Anuradhapura can be accessed from Colombo via several routes, with the two primary corridors running through Puttalam and Kurunegala. The Puttalam route passes the scenic Wilpattu area. From Kurunegala, there are two main approaches: the more commonly used route via Dambulla and an alternative route via Galgamuwa. Among all options, the Kurunegala–Dambulla route (Route 2) is the most frequently used.

Route 01 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route 02 from Colombo to Anuradhapura
Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route 03 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route from Kandy to Anuradhapura
Through : Katunayake Expressway – Narammala – Wariyapola – Padeniya – Thambuthegama Distance from Colombo: 203 km Travel Time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Katugastota – Matale – Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 136 km Travel Time: 3.5 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps