Step into the timeless artistry of Embekke Devale, where wood comes alive with stories carved centuries ago. Hidden in Udu Nuwara near Kandy, this 14th-century shrine dazzles with over 500 intricate carvings—swans, warriors, dancers, and mythical beasts—each stroke echoing Sri Lanka’s finest craftsmanship.
Embekke Devale, celebrated for its intricate woodcarvings and masterful architecture, is nestled in Udu Nuwara, near Daulagala, about 13 kilometers (8 miles) from Kandy. The temple stands as one of Sri Lanka’s finest examples of medieval craftsmanship and artistry.
Exquisite Woodcarvings Recognized by UNESCO
The UNESCO has identified the magnificent carvings adorning the wooden pillars of Embekke Devale as among the finest woodcarvings in the world. Each carving reveals the exceptional skill and imagination of the ancient craftsmen who transformed wood into enduring art.
Origins and Historical Background
According to Embekke Varnanawa, an ancient chronicle composed by Delgahagoda Mudiyanse, the Devale was constructed during the reign of King Wickrema Bahu II in 1371 CE, during the Gampola period. Tradition states that one of the king’s consorts, Henakanda Biso Bandara, together with a drummer named Rangama, built this shrine dedicated to God Kataragama following a divine dream. It was originally a magnificent three-story structure, though only a portion of it remains today.
Architecture and Design
The Devale consists of two main sections: the Digge (Dancing Hall) and the Hewasi Mandapaya (Drummers’ Hall). The wooden capital pillars display an extraordinary variety of shapes and carvings. The lower portion of each pillar is square and octagonal, while the top is beautifully finished with leaf motifs extending from the square base.
Intricate carvings also decorate the Pekada (wooden brackets), beams, rafters, doorways, and doors. Among the most admired masterpieces are depictions of Hansa Puttuwa (entwined swans), double-headed eagles, entwined rope motifs, a mother nursing her child, a warrior on horseback, dancing female figures, wrestlers, women emerging from vines, hybrid creatures like elephant-lion and elephant-bull combinations, and a bird with a human face.
The Illusion of the Elephant and Bull
One of the most fascinating carvings is the elephant-bull figure, a marvel of artistic illusion. When the bull’s portion is covered by the hand, the carving reveals an elephant with an elongated trunk. When the elephant’s part is concealed, the bull reappears — a striking example of the artist’s ingenuity and imagination.
The Roof and the Madol Kurupuwa
The roof of Embekke Devale demonstrates the highest level of traditional carpentry craftsmanship. A wooden pin known as the Madol Kurupuwa holds together 26 rafters at the hipped end of the roof of the Digge. This single structural feature is regarded as a masterpiece of medieval engineering. The pin itself is intricately carved with pathuruliya and patha motifs.
In total, the carvings include 125 decorative series, 256 vine patterns (liyawel), 64 lotus designs on Pekada, and 30 additional motifs on timber and roof members—amounting to 514 exquisite carvings in all.
Preservation Concerns
Despite its grandeur, Embekke Devale faces modern challenges. The parapet wall facing the road has been defaced with posters, creating an unpleasant sight for visitors, especially foreigners. Greater vigilance by caretakers is necessary to protect the dignity and visual appeal of this sacred heritage site.
The Stone Pillar Assembly – The Sinhasana Mandapaya
About 200 meters (1/8 mile) from the main Devale stands another remarkable site—a collection of 16 stone pillars carved with designs replicating the wooden motifs of Embekke. Each pillar features two octagonal sections above square bases, decorated with carvings on all four sides.
It is believed that the roof beams once rested on Pekada (carved capitals) that have since disappeared. The roof was once covered with flat tiles, and the motifs found here — including rope designs, entwined swans, berunda birds, and dancing figures — closely resemble those of Embekke’s wooden carvings.
The structure, known as the Sinhasana Mandapaya, measures 8.2 meters (27 feet) in length and 6.7 meters (22 feet) in width. It stands on a platform supported by four monolithic corner pillars, each about 2.1 meters (7 feet) high. Historical accounts and photographs, such as one published in Henry Cave’s Book of Ceylon (1908), show that this Ambalama (rest house) once had a wooden roof. In ancient times, kings and their royal retinues are said to have rested here to watch the perahera (procession).
Preservation Urgency
Of the 16 stone pillars, seven have fallen, and several are broken in two. The carvings on these fallen pillars are deteriorating rapidly, posing a threat to their survival. It is crucial that the Department of Archaeology undertakes prompt restoration to preserve this irreplaceable monument from further decay and vandalism.
Also See
Map of Embekke Devalaya
The map above also shows other places of interest within a approximately 20 km radius of the current site. Click on any of the markers and the info box to take you to information of these sites
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Driving Directions to Embekke Devalaya
| Distance from Colombo to Embekke Devalaya | Distance From Kandy to Embekke Devalaya |
| Though : Colombo – Kandy Road distance :110 km Travel time : 3.00 hoursDriving directions : see on google map | Though : Embilmeegama-Daulagala-Penideniya distance :17 km Travel time : 45 mins Driving directions : see on google map |
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