Gal Viharaya (Rock Temple) at Polonnaruwa

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Gal Viharaya - Polonnaruwa — Gal Viharaya – Polonnaruwa

Gal Viharaya or the Rock Hewn Shrine at Polonnaruwa is one of the most impressive antiquities seen in the island of Sri Lanka and possibly not rivalled throughout the Continent of India. This magnificent group of gigantic figures carved from the grey rock that forms their background was built by King Parakramabahu (1153-1186) and was part of the Uthararama Complex.

The first European to record this lost treasure was Lieutenant Fagon, who pushed through massive jungles in search of the lost kingdom of Polonnaruwa in 1820. He reports

“In advancing about half a mile further in the jungle I came upon what at first view appeared a large black rock, about 80 ft. long and 30 high in the centre, and sloping towards the ends, and on advancing a few steps further found myself under a black and gigantic human figure at least 25 ft. high. I cannot describe what I felt at the moment.
On examination, I found this to be a figure of Budhoo in an upright posture, of excellent proportions and in an attitude, I think, uncommon, his hands laid gracefully across his breast and his robe falling from his left arm.
Close on his left lies another gigantic figure of the same sacred personage in the usual recumbent posture.1 climbed up to examine it more minutely and found that the space between the eyes measured one foot, the length of the nose 2 ft. 4 in., and the little finger of the hand under his head 2 feet. The size of the figure may be guessed from these proportions.
On the left of the standing figure is a small door of the Vihari, and on the right of the door, another figure of the god of the same proportions as the former two and in the common sitting attitude. These figures are cut out clear from the rocks and finely executed, but whether each is formed of one or more pieces I forgot to examine.
The entrance to the Vihari is arched with a pilaster on each side cut out of the rock, the old wooden door in good preservation. Within sits Budhoo on a throne, a little above the human size with his usual many headed and many-handed attendants. The apartment is narrow and the ceiling low and painted in red ornament, the whole resembling others that I have seen in the Seven Corles, Matale, etc.
Between the door and the standing figure, the rock is made smooth for about 6 ft. square, and this space is covered with a close written Kandian [sic] inscription perfectly legible.
1 may have overlooked many interesting points in this great monument of superstition, but it was nearly dark and 1 was obliged to return to Topary. Various names are assigned by the people to the other buildings, but they all agree on calling this Galle Vihari.”

Twenty years afterwards, Major Forbes (1940) included a description of the “Gal Vihare” in his notice of the ancient structures of Polonnaruwa:

“Projecting from the perpendicular face of a large rock, in the strongest relief, are three colossal figures of Buddha : they are in the usual positions, sitting, standing, and reclining; the last-mentioned being upwards of forty feet in length. According to minute directions which the Cingalese possess, these positions of Gautama are, and his features ought to be, retained without variation. Between the sitting and standing figures, the Isuramuni [sic], or Kalugalla vihare, has been cut in the hard rock. In this cavern-temple part of the stone has been left, and afterwards shaped into the figure of Buddha seated on a throne: the two pillars in front of this wihare are also part of the solid rock. These works were completed in the twelfth century, and in the reign of Prakrama Bahoo ; yet are not only undecayed, but the most minute ornaments are sharp and undiminished by time or weather.”

The first statue encountered at the site is a seated Buddha in meditation, positioned upon a lotus pedestal. The rock surface behind the statue is adorned with carvings of vimana (celestial mansions), within which four smaller Buddha figures are depicted.

Rock-Cut Buddha with Attendant Deities

The next image is a smaller Buddha statue, approximately 4.6 meters (15 feet) in height, carved directly into the rock face. Flanking the figure are two deities. This composition is generally interpreted as representing the Buddha’s ascent to Thusitha heaven, where he is believed to have preached to his mother.

Tradition holds that this statue was once covered in pure gold. It is said that treasure hunters, in their attempts to extract the gold, burned logs against the surface, causing the gilding to melt and resulting in damage to the statue.

Standing Figure: Buddha or Ananda Thero?

The third sculpture is a standing figure measuring approximately 7 meters (23 feet) in height. There is some scholarly debate regarding its identity, with some suggesting that it represents Ananda Thero at the moment of the Buddha’s passing rather than the Buddha himself.

This interpretation is partly based on historical chronicles, which mention only two seated images and one reclining figure attributed to King Parakramabahu (1153–1186). As such, the standing statue is often considered to be a later addition, possibly commissioned by a subsequent ruler.

Reclining Buddha: The Parinibbana

The final and largest sculpture is a monumental reclining Buddha, measuring approximately 24.4 metres (80 feet) in length. This figure represents the Parinibbana (passing away of the Buddha).

Distinctive features, such as the position of the eyelids and the slight misalignment of the feet, where one foot rests slightly behind the other rather than being evenly aligned, indicate that the figure portrays the moment of death rather than repose.

References

H.C.P. Bell, 1911. Archaeological Survey of Ceylon: North Central, Northern and Central Provinces – Annual Report 1907. Colombo: H.C. Cottle.
Mitton, G. (1917). The Lost Cities of Ceylon. Frederick A. Stokes Company.
Forbes, J. (1840). Eleven Years in Ceylon: Comprising Sketches of the Field Sports and Natural History of That Colony, and an Account of Its History and Antiquities (Vols. 1–2). Richard Bentley.

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Map of Gal Viharaya (Rock Temple) at the Ancient Capital of Polonnaruwa

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Driving Directions to Polonnaruwa Sacred City

The modern town of Polonnaruwa is also known as New Town, and the other part of Polonnaruwa remains the ancient royal city of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Route from Colombo to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Kandy to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Central Highway—Kurunegala—Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 230 km Travel Time: 5 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Batticaloa to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time : 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.