Vishnu Devalaya of Kandy Kingdom

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The Maha Vishnu Devalaya is a premier spiritual pillar of Kandy, dedicated to Lord Vishnu as the protective deity of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. Rebuilt by King Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe, this architectural gem features a distinctive multi-tiered roof and houses the sacred site where the Kap Situveema ritual initiates the Kandy Esala Perahera.

To the northwest of the palace, in front of the Natha Devale, stands the Vishnu Devalaya, popularly known as the Maha Devale. It is one of the four Hatara Devale in Kandy, the others being the Natha, Kataragama, and Patini shrines. These four devalayas have long been associated with the Royal Palace (Maha Vasala) of the Kandyan Kingdom and the Temple of the Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), and from their inception, they have been venerated by both Buddhists and Hindus. Another shrine dedicated to Ganesha, the elephant-headed Hindu deity, now known as Pillaiyar Kovil, is located in Katukele.

Names and Identity of the Deity

Various historical records refer to both the deity and the shrine by different names. Robert Knox, the English prisoner, referred to the deity of this shrine as Aluth Nuwara Deiyo. According to legend, Aluth Nuwara Deviyo was brought to Aluth Nuwara in the Kegalle District from Devinuwara in Matara. This deity was also known as Upulvan Deiyo, meaning a deity of lotus-like (blue) complexion.

In later periods, the deity at Aluth Nuwara came to be identified as Vishnu. The 15th-century poetic work Paravi Sandeshaya describes the deity at Devinuwara, Matara, as a destroyer of Asura. Based on this, it is believed that this same deity may also correspond to Rama of the great Indian epic Ramayana. Supporting this interpretation, the 19th-century poetic work Ehelapola Varnanawa refers to the shrine in Kandy as the Rama Devale. It is also noteworthy that this devale once possessed a cloth painting depicting the battle between Rama and Ravana.

Historical Developments

During the Portuguese invasion of the Kandyan Kingdom, the Upulvan Devalaya at Aluth Nuwara was damaged. Subsequently, King Senerath (1604–1635) constructed a new shrine in Kandy for the Upulvan deity. During the rule of the Nayakkar dynasty, this Upulvan Devalaya was transformed into a Vishnu Devalaya. The confusion in names likely arose due to the similarity in the complexion attributed to both deities, as Vishnu is depicted in blue, while Upulvan signifies the color of the blue lotus (Abeyawardhana, 2004).

Deity Upulvan in the Mahavansa

According to the Mahavansa, the great chronicle of Sri Lanka, Upulvan Deviyo, identified with Vishnu, was entrusted with the guardianship of the island and the protection of Buddhism at the time of the Buddha’s passing away.

“When the Guide of the World, having accomplished the salvation of the whole world and having reached the utmost stage of blissful rest, was lying on the bed of his nibbana; in the midst of the great assembly of gods, he, the great sage, the greatest of those who have speech, spoke to Sakka’ who stood there near him: `Vijaya, son of king Sihabahu, is come to Lanka from the country of Lala, together with seven hundred followers. In Lanka, O lord of gods, will my religion be established, therefore carefully protect him with his followers and Lanka.
When the lord of gods heard the words of the Buddha he from respect handed over the guardianship of Lanka to the god who is in colour like the lotus. “
— From Mahavansa

Beliefs and Royal Ceremonies

According to traditional beliefs, Vishnu is regarded as a future Buddha, following Natha. As a result, Vishnu has always held a prominent position among the deities worshipped by the people of Sri Lanka. During the Kandyan period, the royal coronation ceremony, known as Abisheka Mangallaya, was conducted at this Maha Devale.

Architecture and Layout

The origins of the Vishnu Devalaya remain unclear. The structure consists of a long building with a two-storied sanctum at one end. In front of the sanctum lies an elongated hall known as the dig-ge, which was traditionally used by dancers performing ritual offerings (puja) to the deity. Today, this hall serves as a space for devotees to offer prayers.

The complex is accessed through a two-storied vahalkada (entrance gateway), leading to an open hall supported by timber columns on the middle terrace. The site also features a finely carved stone staircase and a dedicated drumming hall.

Associated Shrines and Traditions

In addition to the main devalaya, the site includes a shrine dedicated to Dedimunda Deiyo as well as a Bo tree. Adding further complexity to the traditions surrounding this site, W. A. De Silva (1920) noted that Dedimunda Deiyo is known by several names. According to these traditions, he was born at Talagiri rock, the son of the Yakka chief Purnaka and a beautiful Naga mother.

References

Seneviratna, A., 1983. Kandy: an Illustrated Survey of Ancient Monuments With Historical, Archaeological and Literary Descriptions Including Maps of the City and Its Suburbs. Colombo: Central Cultural Fund, Ministry of Cultural Affairs.
Abeyawardhana, H. A. P. (2004) Heritage of Kandurata: Major Natural, Cultural, and Historic Sites. Kandy: Kandurata Development Bank, in association with the Central Bank of Sri Lanka.
De Silva, W.A. (1925) “Ceremonial Songs of the Sinhalese Guardian Spirits (Deva),” Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, XXVIII(1919-1920).

Also See

Kandy – The Last Kingdom of Sinhale

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Traveling Directions to Vishnu Devalaya of Kandy Kingdom

Kandy can be reached from Colombo via the old Colombo-Kandy road (option 1), which is scenic but heavily congested, especially on Fridays and Sundays. However, the new Central Expressway (option 2) has opened up a new route, which is longer but less cumbersome.

Route 1 from Colombo to Kandy	Route 2 from Colombo to Kandy
Through: Walapane – Raja Mawatha Distance: 100 km Travel Time: 3.0 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.	Through: Warakapola – Kegalle – Kadugannawa Distance: 121 km Travel Time: 4.15 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route From Nuwara Eliya to Kandy
Through : Walapane – Raja Mawatha Distance: 100 km Travel Time: 3.0 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.