Kiri Vehera at Polonnaruwa | AmazingLanka.com

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before restoration – photo taken on late 1800′s or early 1900′s

The Kiri Vehera in Polonnaruwa is a 12th-century bubbulākāra stupa commissioned by Queen Subhadda, a wife of King Parakramabahu the Great (r. 1153–1186 CE). It is Sri Lanka’s best-preserved ancient monument; its name reflects the original white plaster that resembled milk. Standing within the Alāhana Parivena, it features three receding pēsāvas and unique deity carvings on its devatā-koṭuva.

The Kiri Vehera, located within the Alahana Pirivena monastic complex in the ancient kingdom of Polonnaruwa, is widely regarded as the most architecturally complete and best-preserved ancient stupa in Sri Lanka. Although moderate in size when compared to the colossal stupas of Anuradhapura, its exceptional state of preservation offers modern archaeologists the clearest surviving example of the classical hemispherical, or bubble-shaped (Bubulakara), stupa form.

Origin

Historical chronicles and modern archaeological studies traditionally attribute the foundation of the temple to Queen Subhadda (also identified as Bhaddavati), one of the principal consorts of King Parakramabahu the Great (r. 1153–1186 CE). He is known for reviving the tradition of constructing monumental stupas (Paranavitana, 1948/1950). The monument formed part of a broader vision for the Alahana Pirivena, a vast monastic university established by the king on a terraced elevation to the north of the royal citadel.

The name “Kiri Vehera” is generally believed to derive from the stupa’s white appearance. Local tradition holds that when the monument was first cleared from the jungle, its original white chunam plaster remained so well preserved that it resembled milk (kiri).

Architecture and Dimensions

The stupa stands at the center of a large square terrace measuring approximately 57.6 meters (189 feet) on each side. The base of the dome has a diameter of 26.8 meters (88 feet) (Bell, 1915; Prematilleke, 2007). The structure rises to a height of about 24 meters (80 feet) up to its now-damaged spire (Bell, 1915).

The monument is composed of three receding basal terraces known as pesavas. Each terrace ranges between approximately 0.9 and 1.2 meters (3 to 4 feet) in height and may have served as platforms for floral offerings or for ritual circumambulation, a practice that dates back to early Indian stupas such as those at Sanchi (Prematilleke, 2007).

Above the dome is a solid brick square hatareskotuva (tee), measuring about 7.4 meters (24 feet 4 inches) on each side and 3.7 meters (12 feet) in height. This is surmounted by the devata-kotuva (enclosure of the deities), a circular drum approximately 2.9 meters (9 feet 6 inches) in diameter and 2.3 meters (7 feet 8 inches) high. The drum is ornamented with eight divinities depicted in a posture of worship, with hands clasped in reverence. Above this rises the kota (spire), about 7 meters (23 feet) in height, though parts of it have been lost over time (Paranavitana, 1947; Prematilleke, 2007).

Interior and Relic Chambers

Systematic excavations carried out by H. C. P. Bell in the early twentieth century provided rare insight into the internal structure of the stupa. His investigation uncovered a “tortuous tunnel” approximately 7.6 meters (25 feet) in length, which had been dug centuries earlier by treasure seekers attempting to access the relic chambers. Upon clearing the passage, archaeologists identified two separate chambers that had already been breached and stripped of their sacred relics and valuables (Bell, 1915).

The upper chamber measured about 3.4 meters (11 feet 2 inches) across but had been thoroughly looted. It originally contained structural supports for a central yantragala (stone reliquary) as well as a Mahameru stone symbolizing the cosmic mountain (Bell, 1915).

A third and lowest chamber remained sealed and undisturbed, as the tunnel created by looters had not reached that depth. This chamber was deliberately left unopened by Bell’s team (Bell, 1915).

Surrounding Structures

Numerous smaller restored stupas are found in the vicinity of Kiri Vehera. These have been identified as burial monuments associated with high-ranking monks and members of royalty. Many of these, including the main stupa itself, have been damaged by treasure hunters, resulting in the loss of valuable relics.

Two identical stupas located to the south of the Lankathilaka are believed to have been constructed over the remains of a king and a queen.

Photos before restoration from www.imagesofceylon.com

References

Bell, H. C. P. (1915). Archaeological Survey of Ceylon: North-Central, Central and North-Western Provinces : Annual Report 1911-1912. H. R. Cottle, Government Printer of Ceylon.
Paranavitana, S., 1947. Memoirs Of The Archaeological Survey of Ceylon – Volume V – The Stupa In Ceylon. Colombo: The Ceylon Government Press.
Paranavitana, S. (1950). Guide to Polonnaruwa (3rd ed.). Government Press. (Original work published 1948)
Prematilleke, P. L. (1990). The Architecture of the Polonnaruwa Period B.C. 800 — 1200 A.D. In N. De Silva (Ed.), Archaeological Department Centenary (1890-1990) : Commemorative Series : Volume Three : Architecture (1st ed., Vols. 3–4, pp. 35–70). Department of Archaeology, Sri Lanka.
Prematilleke, P. L. (2007). The Art and Archaeology of Sri Lanka I: Archaeology, Architecture, Sculpture. Central Cultural Fund.

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Driving Directions to Polonnaruwa Sacred City

The modern town of Polonnaruwa is also known as New Town, and the other part of Polonnaruwa remains the ancient royal city of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Route from Colombo to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Kandy to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Central Highway—Kurunegala—Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 230 km Travel Time: 5 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Batticaloa to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time : 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.