Unique Balustrade Carvings of Thuparama Panchayatana

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Left Balustrade of Panchawasa of Thuparamaya

Thuparamaya is the first stupa to be built in the country after the introduction of Buddhism to Sri Lanka. Built during the time of King Devamnampiyatissa (250BC – 210BC) this was a stupa as well as an Aramic complex (monastery). “As contemporary with Asoka ” (says Mr. Fergusson, in his History of Indian and Eastern Architecture ), “it belongs to the most interesting period of Buddhist history and is older, or, at least, as old as anything now existing on the continent of India” (Smither and Wikramagamage, 1993).

As you walk along the paved footpath from Thuparama to Ruwanweli Seya, you will find several conserved ruins belonging to the Thuparama Monastery, which had been part of the bigger Maha Vihara monastery.

Just opposite Thuparama Stupa lies the Sangamitta Stupa with a number of ruins in Welimaluwa (sand courtyard). Passing and just adjoining the Welimaluwa of Thuparamaya, you will find ruins of the Hospital Complex of the monastery. This is not easy to see, as it lies towards the rear of the Welimaluwa area. By the side of the hospital complex lies the restored building of Thuparama Chapter House.

Walking 220 meters on this footpath towards Ruwanweli Seya, again on the right you will find what seems like some insignificant ruins by the road. Behind these ruins, 85 meters away from the footpath, you will see another conserved building built on a high stone platform with large pillars. Originally there had been 32 sharply square pillars on this building.

Access to this building is through a finely built flight of six steps, each carved with the typical 3 gana bas-reliefs with pillars on each step.

At the entrance, there are two beautiful guardstones, balustrades (Korawakgal) and a moonstone. The balustrades are flattened at the front, indicating that there had been guardstones at the front but both are missing.

In addition to the artistic nature of the bas-reliefs on the two Korawakgal, the carvings are so unique and unusual, that anything similar is not found anywhere else in the country.

Unique Balustrade (Southern Side) Carvings of Thuparama Panchayatana

The side bas-relief in the left (southern) side balustrade (Korawakgala) depicts primarily a forest scene with thatched houses in between sylvan groves which all make separate divisions of the entire panel.

Inside the groves are depicted women with peculiarly elongated heads (resembling horse heads) caressing men. In the middle of this scene is carved a pair of maned lions probably a male and a female within an arched enclosure which covers about one-fourth of the entire scene.

The lions are shown as if they are about to come out of their den. More prominence is given to the pair of lions in their den by depicting them comparatively several times larger than the human and animal figures carved in the panel. The lion in front, probably the male, is shown with its right front paw raised.

Right Balustrade of Panchawasa of Thuparamaya

Unique Balustrade (Northern Side) Carvings of Thuparama Panchayatana

The second panel, which is on the right-hand side (northern) balustrade (Korawakgala), too depicts carvings in similar bas-relief of the same nature as in the left side panel. Here too prominence is given to the pair of maned lions in their den, at the very center. The naked Kinnara and Sabara damsels inveighing men into their jungle groves for love play are clearly visible in this panel. One could easily find here the horse-headed (Assamukhi) and the bird-bodied Kinnara women.

A noteworthy note on the carvings, as well as the shrine to which they belonged, has been made by Mr. H. C. P. Bell in his 1894 Archeology Report.

“Judged by its basement ruins no more handsome specimen of this type of shrine was ever erected at Anuradhapura—The building was originally supported on thirty two sharply squared pillars of which not even the stumps have all been left in the ground The Vihara faces east and the perron stairway mounts to an open rectangular portico, 18 ft. by 6 ft. paved by an immense monolithic slab, into which were sunk a couple of pillars to hold the roof. A single fragment, the right angled return of one of the sedilia or low parapet kerb stones to the portico, was unearthed.

This shows in a panel bas-relief dwarf trampling on a snake. The risers of the five steps and landing slab exhibit the customary surface carving of rich staircases, triple ganas separated by pilasters of very conventionalised design.

The most striking feature of the beautiful stairs are the balustrades (sic). These are of the finest order of wing slabs dominated by that mythical Buddhist Monster, the Makara. From the mouths of the saurians issue ornamented scrolls curling downwards into volutes. On each balustrade’s outerface is cut in bas-relief a lion present and on the inner a posturing dwarf below the helix.

But added to this adornment is the absolutely unique specimen of genre carving which occupies the vertical outer side. Ordinarily, unless quite plain, this space is occupied by the figures of lions, passant guardant, and further back, relief pilasters on which rest the Makara’s talons.

On these wingstones the customary pilasters give place to representation of temple facades, and the lions are semi-duplicated and framed in forest and cave scenes, depicted in small panels separated by leafy boughs. Here are jungle men and women (?Veddo), unclothed, bears, deer, monkeys, peacock, mongoose and cobra, and other wild animal life for the most part spiritedly carved. This relievo carving differs on the two balustrades. Whatever deeper and obscure meaning be symbolized by the varied scenes depicted no monk but must assuredly have gathered one simple object lesson, the sanctity to be acquired by Wanawasa eremites who flee the world and live religious days midst forest surroundings in holy meditation”

Other than a few mentions, unfortunately, no proper study has been done on these unique balustrades up to date.

Intrinsic carvings of left Balustrade of Panchawasa of Thuparamaya

Intrinsic carvings of right Balustrade of Panchawasa of Thuparamaya

References

Perera, A.D.T.E. (1973) “Unique Carvings on a Makara Wingstone from an ancient shrine at Anuradhapura,” Journal of the Sri Lanka Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society , XVII (new series).
Bell, H.C.P. (1914) Archaeological Survey of Ceylon, Plans and Plates for Annual Report, 1897. Colombo, Sri Lanka: H.C. Cottle .
Wikramagamage, C., (2004). Heritage of Rajarata: Major natural, cultural, and historic sites. Colombo. Central Bank of Sri Lanka. p.61.

Also See

Anuradhapura – The city of the God King

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Driving Directions to Anuradhapura Unique Balustrade Carvings of Thuparama Panchayatana

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Bus

Anuradhapura can be conveniently reached by bus, train, or private transport. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate from the Colombo Fort Main Bus Station. In addition, luxury buses departing from various locations in Colombo travel via Anuradhapura to Vavuniya and Jaffna; these require advance online booking and generally operate overnight, arriving at their final destinations early in the morning.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Train

Five daily trains operate from Colombo Fort Railway Station to Anuradhapura. Typically, the first train departs at 9.40 a.m. and the last at 8.30 p.m. The journey takes approximately four to five hours, depending on the number of stops made by the particular service.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Car or Van

Anuradhapura can be accessed from Colombo via several routes, with the two primary corridors running through Puttalam and Kurunegala. The Puttalam route passes the scenic Wilpattu area. From Kurunegala, there are two main approaches: the more commonly used route via Dambulla and an alternative route via Galgamuwa. Among all options, the Kurunegala–Dambulla route (Route 2) is the most frequently used.

Route 01 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route 02 from Colombo to Anuradhapura
Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route 03 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route from Kandy to Anuradhapura
Through : Katunayake Expressway – Narammala – Wariyapola – Padeniya – Thambuthegama Distance from Colombo: 203 km Travel Time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Katugastota – Matale – Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 136 km Travel Time: 3.5 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps