Totagamuwa Rathpath Rajamaha Viharaya

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The new shrine of Totagamu Rajamaha Viharaya built in 1905
photo by : sameera prasad

Totagamu Rathpath Rajamaha Viharaya—also known as Telwatte Viharaya—is located in the Galle District and is traditionally identified with the ancient Vijayaba Pirivena of Totagamuwa, one of Sri Lanka’s most prominent centers of learning during the 5th century.

Ancient Vijayaba Pirivena

The Gira Sandesaya, a classical Sinhalese poem, paints a vivid picture of the approach to this prestigious educational institution. It describes a path of white sand winding through lush orchards and flowering trees, with the grounds teeming with bees, squirrels, and dancing peacocks. Trees such as sal, kolon, sapu, na, kinihiri, palol, genda, erahandi, mango, and sinidda adorned the surroundings.

The curriculum at Vijayaba Pirivena was impressively diverse, covering the Abhidharma, Sutra, and Vinaya Pitakas, grammar, Vedic studies, astrology; medicine; economics; and the literary arts—taught in Sanskrit, Pali, Sinhala, and Tamil. Sir Ponnambalam Arunachalam once described it as an institution with inclusive aims, serving both Buddhists and Hindus, laypeople and clergy, in all the fields of knowledge then known.

The Scholar-Monk: Ven. Totagamuwe Sri Rahula Thero

The most celebrated monk associated with the temple was Ven. Totagamuwe Sri Rahula Thero, author of the Salalihini Sandesaya. According to the Gira Sandesaya, he was a master of Buddhist scriptures, Sanskrit grammar, poetics, and multiple languages. He was also an expert in the 18 classical sciences and served as a spiritual advisor to King Parakramabahu VI of Kotte (1412–1467 CE). His writings and intellect were highly regarded by scholars and poets alike.

Destruction and Rediscovery

With the arrival of the Portuguese, this Buddhist center of learning was destroyed and left in ruins. It was rediscovered in 1765 by Ven. Pallattara Punnasara Thero, who dedicated himself to its restoration. In recognition of his efforts, King Kirti Sri Rajasinghe (1747–1781 CE) of Kandy gifted the temple two elephant tusks. A new image house (Aluth Viharaya) was completed in 1805, featuring impressive sculptures and murals.

Present-Day Temple Complex

Today, visitors to the temple will find a quadrangle housing the Purana Viharaya (old shrine), Aluth Viharaya (new shrine), a stupa, a Bodhi tree, seven stone pillars, and a belfry. There are also shrines for Vishnu (Vishnu Devalaya), three local deities (Thun Devalaya), and a Dharmasala (preaching hall).

Unique Artistic Features

One of the most notable sculptures is that of the God of Love, marking the boundary between the vestibule (symbolizing the sensual world) and the sanctum (representing spiritual awakening). The deity is richly adorned and holds a bow of sugarcane and five flower-tipped arrows.

Another significant statue is that of the Bodhisattva Natha (Avalokitesvara), the temple’s patron deity. A makara torana (dragon arch) above the southern doorway includes a mural with the pancha nari geta—a design where five women are composed to form a vase of plenty.

Rare and Remarkable Murals

A particularly rare depiction at the temple is a series of five panels illustrating the footprints of the Buddha—an artistic representation believed to be unique in Sri Lanka. The murals also portray the six celestial heavens, complete with chariot processions and divine beings.

The Jataka tales depicted here are primarily set in jungle scenes, possibly reflecting the artist’s preference or the temple’s natural surroundings.

Inscription

The quadrangle features stone pillars inscribed with short epigraphs dating to the 11th century, though it is believed that the origins of the site go back much further.

Fading Murals of Totagamu Rajamaha Viharaya

Fading Murals of Totagamu RaFading Murals of Totagamu Rajamaha Viharayajamaha Viharaya

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Travel Directions to Totagamuwa Rathpath Rajamaha Viharaya

Route from Colombo to Totagamuwa Rathpath Rajamaha Viharaya	Route from Telwatta Junction to Totagamuwa Rathpath Rajamaha Viharaya
Through : Southern Expressway – Kurundugahahatakema Exit – Ambalangoda—Telwatta Distance : 114 km Travel time : 2 hours Driving directions : see on Google Maps	Distance : 350 meters Travel time : 30 minutes Driving directions : see on Google Maps.