Yudaganawa and Chulangani Viharaya at Buttala

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Situated near Buttala on the Wellawaya–Buttala Road, Yudaganawa Temple is home to one of the largest stupas in Sri Lanka, believed to date back to the 2nd century BCE. This site is historically significant as the probable location of a fierce battle between Prince Tissa and his brother Prince Gamini, who would later become the legendary King Dutugemunu, following the death of their father, King Kavanthissa.

The Rajavaliya describes this battle

“…. Prince Gemunu coming to know that his father has died, left Kothmale and arriving at the city of Magama, sent word to prince Tissa requesting him to dispatch the mother and the tusker, who was born on the same day. But prince Tissa did not heed that request. Letters were sent 3 times and when there was no response prince Gemunu setout to fight, taking with him his men. The two brothers met each others at Yudaganapitiya. Thirty thousand soldiers of prince Gemunu fell in the battlefield and and taking defeat he started to flee. When Prince Tissa was chasing after his brother, the maha sanga came and blocked his way, and noticed that prince Tissa returned to Digamadulla. ………..”

The Massive Stupa and Its Significance

The grand stupa at Yudaganawa spans an impressive circumference of 317 meters (1038 feet), making it one of the largest in the island. Initially, scholars believed this structure to be a Kota Vehera—a style of stupa where a smaller stupa sits atop an unfinished larger one. Similar structures can be found in Dadigama, Deliwala (Rambukkana), Damila Maha Seya (Polonnaruwa), and Lahugala.

However, recent excavations led by Dr. W.H. Wijepala, former Director-General of Archaeology, have revealed that the Yudaganawa stupa was originally a complete and unified structure, not a Kota Vehera. Locally, it is often referred to as the Kinkini Stupa.

After centuries of neglect, restoration work is now underway at Yudaganawa. Large trees still grow on the stupa’s upper platform, evidence of long abandonment. The platform itself has been excavated to a depth of about three feet, revealing structural details that were hidden beneath the surface.

The Image House

Historical accounts suggest that the temple was revived around 1857 by Venerable Davulegolle Sonutthara Thero, who likely resided at the site during that time. The small shrine in front of the stupa, attributed to this restoration period, is constructed from clay—common in shrines of that era. The Buddha statues within are also clay.

Above the entrance, two serpent figures curl upwards like horns. A Kimbisi face from the Makara Pandol is carved to cover the space. On either side of the doorway stand two lions, flanked by guardian deities holding swords. Higher up, two kinnari flank either side of the lions, and to the right, a bird faces one of the kinnari, with a hare figure placed below (Sumanasekara Banda, 1986, pp. 32–34).

The inner doorway is adorned with a sun and moon motif. On the right side are images of the deities Kataragama and Gana, topped by depictions of the Buddha. The left wall portrays several scenes from the seven weeks following the Buddha’s Enlightenment, including the well-known depiction of the Buddha sheltered by the serpent king Muchalinda. The walls and ceilings are filled with illustrations of Suvisi Vivaranaya, swans, flowers, and female figures. Though some colors have faded or altered over time, the overall palette still reflects the style of the Kandyan artistic tradition. Flanking the main statue are representations of the arahants Sariputta and Moggalana, along with the deities Vishnu and Saman. The mural work throughout reflects the humble yet expressive approach of a rural artisan (Sumanasekara Banda, 1986, pp. 32–34).

Chulangani Viharaya: The Companion Site

Just before reaching the Yudaganawa car park, a smaller roadside stupa known as Chulangani Viharaya can be seen. While this structure is believed to belong to the 12th century, the Buddha statues within its image house are stylistically attributed to the 6th or 7th century, suggesting that the site may have even earlier origins.

Original state of the stupa before restoration @ Yudaganawa

Broken Buddha Images in the Chulangani Image house @ Yudaganawa

Makara thorana at the top of the entrance to the image house of Yudaganawa

Novice Buddhist Monks on pilgrimage @ Yudaganawa

Entrance to the Image house of Yudaganawa

The Yudaganawa Stupa standing like a massive wall in front of you

Yudaganawa Stupa under restoration with the image house used by the villagers is in front.

References

Sumanasekara Banda, S. J. (1986). ඌවේ දායාද (1st ed.). Sarvodaya Vishwa Lekha.

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Travel Directions to Yudaganawa and Chulangani Viharaya

Wellawaya is accessible via several scenic routes, depending on your point of origin. If you’re traveling from Badulla or Bandarawela, the most direct path is via Ella, which lies along the Badulla–Bandarawela Road. This route also takes you past the striking Ravana Ella waterfall, one of the most picturesque spots in the region.

Alternatively, travelers from Koslanda can take the road that leads past Diyaluma Falls, an awe-inspiring 220-meter-high waterfall—one of the tallest in Sri Lanka. Koslanda itself is situated along the Balangoda–Haputale Road. From Wellawaya, the distance to the turn-off leading to Yudaganawa is approximately 16 kilometers.

If you’re arriving from Kataragama, take the Buttala Road and, upon reaching Buttala town, turn onto the Wellawaya Road. After traveling about 1.2 kilometers from the Buttala junction, you’ll see a large signboard indicating the turn-off to the temple. From there, take a right onto the by-road and continue for another 2 kilometers. This by-lane is paved, and from the modern temple, it’s a short 100-meter walk to the Yudaganawa archaeological site.

This route also passes several significant historical landmarks, including the Maligavila Statues and the ancient Dematamal Viharaya, making the journey both culturally enriching and visually rewarding.

Route from Colombo to Yudaganawa Viharaya	Route from Kataragama to Yudaganawa Viharaya
Through : Kaduwela – Avissawella – Ratnapura – Beragala – Wellawaya Distance : 230 km Travel time : 6 hours Driving directions : see on google map	Through : Buttala Distance : 50 km Travel time : 45 minutes Driving directions : see on google map