Alahana Pirivena of Polonnaruwa

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Ruins of the Alahana Pirivena Complex
Photo By : Shanan Ilen

If you have been to Polonnaruwa, you would know what a rush it is. So many ruins cramped together. When you purchase the entrance ticket to see the ruins, typically the temptation is to see all that is to be seen and this in fact is the folly of it all. On many of our previous visits, we were guilty of the same crime – for it is indeed a crime not to see, visualize, and drink deeply of the splendor of our ancients. In the hot sun, we would pant from one ruined building to another only taking time to quench our thirst, and at the end of the day tramp back to our hotel to relax.

However, changing our modus operandi this time when we visited Polonnaruwa we were determined to visit, study, and relax over just one of the many groups of ruins. So after a holiday lunch (which means you have a license to overeat), an afternoon siesta (luxury), and a fine cup of tea (wake-up call), we made our way to the Alahana Pirivena Monastery site around 5.00 pm.

Alahana Pirivena is the great monastic complex founded by Parakramabahu 1 (1153-1186), said to be built on a cremation ground, hence the name Alahana Pirivena.

The monastery laid out in terraces in idyllic surroundings with small and large rocky outcrops like the Gopala pabbata, meandering streams, ponds, and parks is said to have extended over an area of more than eighty hectares.

Archaeologists have found that the monastery consisted of many separate units demarcated by smaller boundary walls with small entrance doorways. Each unit had its own living cells, and several of them seemed to have shared a common bathhouse, refectory, and other such facilities for monks.

On the highest terrace of the Alahana Pirivena grounds stand the remains of a monumental brick building known as the Baddhasima Pasada which was the chapter house of the monks residing in the monastery.

It is said that during King Parakramabahu’s time, the monks met here fortnightly on the full moon and new moon days with the chief monk on the raised dais in the center, and recited the Vinaya or rules of discipline for monks.

The short stone pillars outside the building which marked the sima or the boundaries of the chapter house are of pleasing design and an important feature.

On the eastern side of this chapter house on a lower terrace is a cave known as the Kuda Gal Vihara wherein are three small stone seated Buddha images. Lankatilake pilimage, the beauty spot of Lanka as the name suggests, is by far the most striking. This is very true if you are lucky to watch the sun setting behind this massive brick building – the largest of the Gedige architecture. Within the cave are the remains of a gigantic 41-foot standing Buddha image.

Although the great vaulted dome above has collapsed, the frescoes decorating the interior walls have faded, and the images for veneration disfigured, it is still a superstructure that reflects the glory of the reign of King Parakramabahu.

Thankfully like a page from history, the exterior walls decorated with bas-reliefs still show a series of miniature buildings of the Polonnaruwa architecture, all delicately sculpted in brick with a fine coating of stucco.

North to Lankatilaka is the milky Kiri Vehera formally known as Rupavati Thupa thought to have been gifted by Queen Subhadra, one of the wives of King Parakramabahu. Some believe that this was named after the mother’s milk said to have been mixed into the mortar.

A number of small stupa mounds found on the premises were discovered to be funerary dagabas of the royal family and the prelates of the monastery.

On a lower terrace is a building identified as a small chapter house. At its entrance is a unique one-of-a-kind rectangular moonstone designed with an open lotus within a line drawing at the center and a row of swans running along the border.

Located in the lower terraces are numerous dwelling cells of the monks, with a few larger cells meant for senior monks.

Several well-constructed symmetrical ponds for bathing and storing of water have been discovered including several wells.

A system of water drainage of clay pipelines, stone outlets, and ornamented gutters is also found here. The vast hospital complex here is said to resemble that at Mihintale but with sanitary facilities attached to the living quarters and a separate treatment area. The Medicine Trough or Beheth Oruva is of perfect design.

Story and pictures by Kishanie S. Fernando
Daily Mirror

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Map of Alahana Privena at Ancient Capital of Polonnaruwa

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Driving Directions to Polonnaruwa Sacred City

The modern town of Polonnaruwa is also known as New Town, and the other part of Polonnaruwa remains the royal ancient city of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Route from Colombo to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Kandy to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through : Central Highway – Kurunegala – Dambulla Distance from Colombo :230 km Travel Time : 4.45 hours Driving Directions : see on Google map	Through : Matale – Dambulla – Habarana Distance : 140 km Travel Time : 3.5 hours Driving Directions : see on Google maps
Route from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Batticaloa to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Though : Maradankadawala – Habarana Distance : 103 km Travel Time : 2 hours Driving Directions : see on Google map	Though : Chenkaladi – Valachchena Distance : 97 km Travel Time : 2 hours Driving Directions : see on Google map