Welikanda Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya Archaeological Site (වැලිකන්ද මුතුගල ගල්ලෙන් රජමහා විහාරය පුරාවිද්‍යා භූමිය)

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Ruined stupa at Welikanda Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya Archaeological Site
Ruined stupa at Welikanda Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya Archaeological Site

Mutugala (or Mutugalla) is a small village at the intersection of two minor roads in the jungle about eight kilometers north of Manampitiya. The village lies close to the right bank of the Mahaweli River, at the edge of the Mutugalla villu.

Mutugala Villu is one of the 6 villus that hugs the Mahaweli Ganga River in the Polonnaruwa district. The others are Handapanwila, Bandiyawila, Karapola, Katuwanwila and Manampitiya. Villus are marshy areas that occur along river floodplains, occupying the natural river levees. Each villu consists of a saucer-shaped pool that is more or less filled with water throughout the year and a marginal floodplain that is inundated only during floods. Villus are also known as ox-bow lakes in other parts of the world.

Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya has also been called Segallen Raja Maha Viharaya in the past. Mutugala has been converted into a forest monastery today with a few priests who protect the site from treasure hunters. Of the ruins, a medium-sized stupa made of bricks, dilapidated from the ravages of time, and vandalized by treasure hunters lies at the top of the rock. No excavation or conservation of the stupa has been done so far. There are also ruins of a much older stupa made out of rock and rubble found at the site and a few others scattered around the site. The whole area is covered in various ruins such as moonstones, pillar bases, stone pillars, and other stone rubble belonging to various buildings.

Out of the 60 or so rock shelters discovered so far, 17 caves have been carved with drip ledges making them suitable for the use of the bikkus. The inscriptions found at the site have been dated to the 2nd century to the 7th century. Details of the inscriptions are found in the fisrt part of the second volume of Inscriptions of Ceylon.

In the Wildlife Conservation Zone of Somawathie in the Grama Niladhari Division of Muthugala in the Welikanda Divisional Secretary’s Division in the Polonnaruwa District, North Central Province, the archaeological site of Muthugala Wegala with the cave complex assigned by the geographical data Nos. mentioned below was designated as an archaeological monument on February 1st, 2023.

North Latitudes East Longitudes
7° 58′ 29.07”N – 81° 9′ 5.47” E
7° 58′ 32.64”N – 81° 8′ 59.02” E
7° 58′ 38.17”N – 81° 9′ 2.46 ” E
7° 58′ 37.99”N – 81° 9′ 7.03” E

H.C.P Bell’s 1897 Visit and the Report on Mutugala Ruins

In 1917, Bell published a report detailing his 1897 visit to Thamankaduwa, where he explored various ruins accompanied by the local Veddas. Mutugala was among the sites he visited during this trip.

MUTU-GALLA.
September 22nd-25th — Cut off from the village by its fields, which lie between the tank and Vila, is situated a low hill, or rather three congeries of rocks and boulders.

These together form the “Mutu-galla Rocks” and are separately named (i) Muvada-gala, (ii) Kovilgala, (iii) Kaven-gala. Despite their apparent insignificance they abound in caves and furnish a surprising number of inscriptions.

Starting from the South end and working Northwards ;

(i) Muvada-gala.
This group lies to the South of the other two.

A low patch of rock with gradual slopes. Only one cave (No. 1), under a boulder, but that has an inscription.

Dagaba
Slightly north, on a separate outcrop, is a large but not high dagaba mound, which was probably rifled years ago; for on its slopes are shed its kota, or pinnacle, and a circular chatra-head-type of altar (like that at Arala-gam-vila), both of stone, as well as a round slab with bossed-centre within counter sunk depression and a spout to carry off liquid offerings— a not unfamiliar form of altar.

The outline of the dagaba’s square platform is still clear in places, and shows flights of steps on the north and west faces ; to south, it was evidently connected with buildings erected on a rectangular site. Near the dagaba on the horizontal rock, is to be seen the right half only of a 9th or 10th, century inscription, once engraved within a frame.

Elsewhere, at the Mutu-galla rocks are remains of three or four other weathered Rock inscriptions of the 5th to 9th century period, of which but two (both quite short) are legible throughout.

(ii) Kovilgala.

About a hundred yards to North of Muwada-gala.

This cluster of rocks is so heavily wooded that no idea of the number, or intricacy, of its boulders can be formed until it is explored.

It contains at least thirteen cave-shelters with “ drip-ledges ” above their mouths, besides other ordinary caves—the latter all formed by the natural slope of boulders; none are artificially improved by scooping or by cut katdre drips.

The numerous caves of Kovil-gala may be most conveniently toured in the following order :

Caves Nos. 2. 3. The first two. These lie one above the other nearly, but under separate boulders, isolated, at the southern extremity of the group. Cave No. 2, has two inscriptions; No. 3 one.

From these to the remainder of the caves (except one which lies off the line) the path is fairly direct and almost level. Just before reaching them a stone-banked site in ruins is passed to right; plain, small guard stones point to its former entrance.

The path then bends to the right, before striking Cave No. 4 ; which is under its own boulder, and has a short inscription, defective at the beginning.

Straight on, stands a huge elongated boulder. Beneath its northern corner there is a tiny shelter (Cave No. 5); and, at the south end another (Cave No. 6), high and shallow, with a single-line inscription.

Between these two caves, a circular basin has been chiselled in the flat rock.

Passing Cave No. 5 and zig-zagging for 20 or 30 yards, one reaches Cave No. 7. This contains a longish record in one line, noticeable for its erratic carving.

At the back of the same boulder, but on a slightly lower level, is a second Cave (No. 8). It has an inscription of one line.

From here the path to the further caves is very narrow and tortuous.

An ascent of 15 yards brings one to Cave No. 9.

This was the Vihare cave, as judged by the remains of brick and plastered walling, and its being the highest placed of all. The fine lookout Eastwards across the vila, well justified the appropriate name the cave was given of Manapa-dasane Lene, “Cave Delightful” (lit “Heart-rejoicing”) The inscription in this cave contains 29 aksharas carved in one Ime, with a symbol to left.

Passing through the cave, whose roof is very low at the back, and a smaller natural cavern adjoining it, first a descent and then another ascent has to be “negotiated.”

Sharply skirting the base of the chief rock (which has a Trig-pile on it and a curious fissure with a tail and straight rukatana tree), Cave No. 10 is gained.

A fine cave, lofty and long, which was doubtless the pansala, or residence of the monks: it bears no inscription whatever. The villagers formerly used it as a “Pattini Devale”; but have now transferred this goddess’ shrine to the village.

Again descending to more boulders—leaving the main rock for the nonce- comes Cave no. 11 with katarama and inscription. The cave is so silted up that the letters are not to be read except in a prone position.

Beyond this again, rather to west, under a separate but contiguous boulder, is Cave No, 12, which has no writing.

Hence, a return is made to the long rock with the Trig-pile. Following it gradually upwards, and keeping, as before, the rock wall to the left band, for 30 yards or so, there supervenes Cave No, 13; a lofty cavern with a rock floor, perched high like Cave No. 9. Many feet up but still below the katare is cut a single-line inscription reversed (i. e. from right to left), a “conceit” met with not infrequently in the case of Cave Epigraphs.

Thence descent lands one at an arm of the villa.

Keeping to the line of rocks Southwards until near Muvada-gala, and then rising some 40 yards, the last Cave (No. 14) of this group is reached. It has a line inscription, in which there are mistakes.

(iii) Kaven-gala.

A cluster of lesser rocks; also wooded. A ruined dagaba crowns the topmost point. Like Muvada-gala, this group too has but a single (No. 15.)

It occurs about 20 yards from the vila arm at the southern end of Kaven-gala, and owns a one line inscription.

References

  1. Bell, H. C. P. (1918). Archaeological Research in the Egoda Pattuwa, Tamankaduwa. The Ceylon Antiquary and Literary RegisterIII (part III), 193–215.
  2. Paranavitana, S. (1983). Inscriptions of Ceylon : Volume II Part I Containing Rock and Other Inscriptions From the Reign of Kutakanna Abhaya (41 B.C. 19 BC-19 B.C.) to Bhatiya II (140-164, A . D .): Vol. II-Part I. Department of Archaeology, Sri Lanka.
  3. Studio Times. (1973). Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller (1st ed.).
  4. Wikramanayaka, V. (2023) ‘Monuments to be declared as Ancient Monuments’, The Gazette of the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka EXTRAORDINARY, 2317/57, p. 4A.

Also See

Map of Welikanda Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya Archaeological Site

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Travel Directions to Welikanda Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya Archaeological Site

The modern town of Polonnaruwa is also known as New Town, and the other part of Polonnaruwa remains the ancient royal city of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Route from Colombo to Polonnaruwa Sacred CityRoute from Kandy to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Central Highway—Kurunegala—Dambulla
Distance from Colombo: 230 km
Travel Time: 5 hours
Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana
Distance: 103 km
Travel Time: 2 hours
Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa Sacred CityRoute from Batticaloa to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana
Distance: 103 km
Travel Time: 2 hours
Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana
Distance: 103 km
Travel Time : 2 hours
Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route from Polonnaruwa to Welikanda Mutugala Gallen Rajamaha Viharaya Archaeological Site
Through : Manampitiya – Welikanda
Distance : 31 km
Travel time : 1 hour
Driving directions : see on google map

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