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A dream trip for most travel fans is to travel around Sri Lanka in a single trip using the coastal roads of Sri Lanka. The plan was to travel on roads closest to the coast around the country. Well, we finally managed to get 4 consecutive days off (including weekends) in November 2021. Initially, we planned to cover this route with 3 days and 2 nights and rest at home on the 4th day. But this was not to be as you will see below.
Planning
The journey was carefully planned using Google Maps, with routes for each day mapped in advance and travel times checked beforehand. The estimated travel duration from Colombo to Jaffna was approximately 8 hours, while the journey from Jaffna to Batticaloa was expected to take around 11 hours. The return journey from Batticaloa to Colombo, using the coastal edge route, was estimated at approximately 10 hours.
Several logistical issues had to be addressed during the planning stage. The ford (Sapatthu Palama) at Eluwankulama had been damaged, making vehicle access impossible across that crossing. As a result, the route had to be altered by taking the Anuradhapura Road from Puttalam and then proceeding along the Oyamaduwa–Thanthirimale Road from Nochchiyagama. This alternative route eventually connected with the Medawachchiya–Mannar Road.
While examining the route on Google Maps, we discovered another road running from Mahawilachchiya to Silawathura along the northern boundary of Wilpattu. After contacting several friends, we learned that this route is controlled by the Sri Lanka Civil Security Force and is generally not open to tourists or regular travellers. Because of the restricted access, the gravel road had not been properly maintained and several culverts along the route were damaged.
Nevertheless, motivated by the spirit of adventure, we decided to attempt the journey. After contacting a friend attached to the security forces, permission was obtained to travel along this road. As a result, the planned route was revised to follow the path from Nochchiyagama to Mahawilachchiya, then onward to Silawathura and finally to Mannar.
Preparation
For an expedition of this nature, involving travel along isolated off-road routes with no human habitation for many kilometers, the use of two four-wheel-drive vehicles was considered essential. A friend who had previously travelled along the interior roads of Wilpattu also recommended carrying towing ropes and an axe, in case fallen trees had to be cleared from the route during the journey
Team
Two 4×4 vehicles and 5 guys
Day 1
We departed from Colombo at approximately 2.00 a.m., with the intention of reaching the Mahawilachchiya entrance to Wilpattu at around 7.00 a.m. The journey began along the Colombo–Katunayake Expressway, followed by the Negombo–Puttalam Road.
We reached the Puttalam junction at about 5.00 a.m., while the town was still quiet and largely asleep. As there were no restaurants or shops open at that hour, we continued slowly along the Anuradhapura Road until we came across a small shop opening for the day at approximately 5.45 a.m. There, we stopped for breakfast and enjoyed freshly made Pol Roti accompanied by hot chilli sambal. The chilli proved so fiery that each of us needed two plain teas to ease the burning sensation.
After resuming the journey, we arrived in Mahawilachchiya at around 7.15 a.m. Using Google Maps for navigation, we then proceeded to the Mahawilachchiya entrance of Wilpattu National Park.
Crossing the Interior Wilpattu Route
The road segment running from Mahawilachchiya to Silawathura is not a public route within the park. Instead, it appears to function primarily as a service road used by the Sri Lanka Civil Security Force and the Army. Once travellers are permitted beyond the checkpoint, the security personnel become responsible for their safety, and for this reason they are understandably reluctant to allow unnecessary travel along the route.
For safety purposes, a minimum of two vehicles is required so that one can assist or recover the other in the event of mechanical trouble or becoming stranded. Even after permission had been granted, officials continued to discourage the journey, warning that several culverts may have been damaged by recent heavy rains. After some discussion among ourselves, we nevertheless decided to proceed, agreeing that if conditions became too dangerous, we would return and continue the journey through Thanthirimale.
Road Conditions and Terrain
The road had been cut almost in a straight line through the jungle between Mahawilachchiya and Silawathura. It consisted mainly of gravel and appeared to have received very little maintenance over the years. The surrounding terrain was flat and dry, dominated by thorny vegetation. Wildlife sightings were limited, with only a few peacocks, Ceylon Junglefowl, and mongooses observed along the route.
Large sections of the road were extremely rough and required four-wheel drive capability, and the recent rains had made conditions considerably worse. Because the road is rarely used, thorny bushes had grown inward from both sides, brushing against the vehicles and leaving scratches along the bodywork.
Fortunately, most of the culverts had been repaired recently, although one had already been partially washed away, apparently due to poor construction quality.
The Final Obstacle
This isolated stretch of road extends for approximately 32.5 km (20.2 miles). Near the Silawathura side, large areas of land on both sides of the road had been cleared for cashew cultivation, which is why the route is locally known as the Kaju Watte Road.
After travelling approximately 22 km (13.7 miles) through the wilderness, we encountered the final and most unexpected obstacle: a ford (Sapatthu Palama), or low-water crossing, over the Kal Aru River. Due to the recent heavy rains, the river was flowing rapidly across the bridge with considerable force. After carefully inspecting both the depth and the strength of the current, we decided to attempt the crossing. Successfully passing over this flooded crossing marked the final challenge on this remote route.
Arrival at Kondachchi and Visit to Arippu
After passing through an army checkpoint and crossing the cashew cultivation area, we arrived at Kondachchi, a junction located slightly south of Silawathura along the old Mannar road. Our next destination was the historic Doric Bungalow at Arippu.
This massive mansion was constructed during the administration of Governor Frederic North (1798–1805). The governor himself laid the foundation stone of the building on 18 March 1802, and construction took nearly two years to complete. Official records, including letters and administrative minutes, indicate that the structure was largely completed by early 1804. Governor North is believed to have stayed there for the first time during the pearl fishery season of 1804, when he resided at Arippu from early February until early April.
The mansion stands close to the shoreline on elevated ground. Due to coastal erosion, part of the structure has already collapsed into the sea. Even so, the thick walls of the main building, rising to two storeys in height, still remain visible, together with the ruins of two supporting structures nearby.
Located a few hundred meters away is the Arippu Tower, also known as the Doric Tower. This unusual cement structure has no immediately obvious function. The square tower gradually tapers upward into a pyramidal form. Although no visible evidence remains, it is believed to have functioned as a primitive lighthouse, with a fire once lit at its summit to guide pearl fishing vessels safely to shore.
Journey toward Mannar
The route from Kondachchi to Mannar proved to be the most difficult section of the journey in terms of security checks. We were stopped at nearly every checkpoint and subjected to repeated questioning and vehicle inspections. One likely reason was that, with the Eluwankulama bridge being non-operational, the authorities were uncertain about where we had originated from. At each checkpoint, we had to explain our route in detail while the vehicles were thoroughly examined.
At one checkpoint, security personnel discovered our jungle sickle inside the vehicle and questioned us extensively about it. Nevertheless, after passing Mannar, the intensity of the inspections gradually decreased, although numerous checkpoints still remained along the route toward Jaffna.
Journey to Devil’s Point
We later received information from a friend about a small lighthouse-like structure located at Devil’s Point (යක් තුඩුව). This remote headland lies at the edge of a large stretch of land projecting into the Indian Ocean between Mannar and Pooneryn.
A few decades ago, Devil’s Point served as a major strategic stronghold of the LTTE terrorist organization. Owing to its geographical position, the location provided extensive visibility across the western coastline, extending toward the Pooneryn coast and the islands of Mandativu. The LTTE used this vantage point to monitor naval movements and launch attacks on Sri Lankan Navy vessels operating along the coast.
Because of the remoteness of the area, the seas surrounding Devil’s Point also became one of the principal smuggling routes used by the terrorists. Weapons, narcotics, and even human trafficking operations were reportedly carried out along this maritime corridor from India. The area itself was also used seasonally by fishermen, who travelled there by sea and established temporary shelters along the coast. LTTE members frequently blended among these civilian fishing groups to avoid detection.
During the final phase of the conflict, however, Devil’s Point was captured by Sri Lankan forces in November 2008, ending decades of terrorist control and liberating the civilian population living in the region.
The Route through the Wilderness
Devil’s Point lies approximately 15 km (9.3 miles) away from the Pooneryn road, separated by a vast expanse of bushland and sandy terrain. Closer to the coast, the landscape is interrupted by large shallow water bodies and narrow tracks resembling causeways. Using Google Maps for navigation, we attempted to cross this isolated terrain, driving across open land dotted with shallow pools of water.
The recent heavy rains had submerged several of the tracks, making it difficult to determine whether they were still in use or had long been abandoned. After overcoming numerous challenges, we finally reached the coastline, only to discover that the route had brought us to a point approximately 3 km (1.86 miles) south of our intended destination. The location turned out to be a small fishing settlement guarded by a Sri Lankan Navy detachment.
Return toward Jaffna
By this time, it was already around 3.30 p.m., and we no longer had sufficient time to continue searching for the exact location. Reaching the intended point would likely have involved an even more difficult drive than the one we had already completed, as we were now much closer to the sea where shallow pools of water extended in every direction. Portions of the tracks appeared only intermittently in the distance, requiring extremely slow driving and careful inspection of every submerged section before proceeding.
Considering these conditions, we decided to abandon the attempt and begin our return journey toward Jaffna.
Sunset at the Mandathivu Causeway
Our goal was to reach Jaffna before 5.30 p.m. in order to witness the sunset. The sunset viewed from the Jaffna–Mandathivu causeway is one of the most remarkable and distinctive sunset experiences in the country.
We managed to arrive in Jaffna at approximately 5.30 p.m., just as the sun was descending below the horizon. Driving onto the Mandathivu causeway, we spent nearly an hour watching the sunset spread across the landscape, with the silhouettes of palm trees standing against the fading evening light.
During the journey toward Jaffna, we reserved two rooms at a reasonably comfortable rest house after reviewing its photographs on Google. We eventually reached the accommodation at around 7.00 p.m.
By the end of the day, we had travelled approximately 390 km (242 miles) over a period of nearly 15 hours and 15 minutes.
Day 2
Our original plan for the second day was to drive to Batticaloa. However, one of our friends arranged accommodation near the beach in Mullaitivu for the second night, which extended our trip from two nights to three. As a result, we were not in a hurry to leave early in the morning. We went into town, had some short eats for breakfast, visited a supermarket, and purchased food and other necessities for the day. By the time we completed everything and began the journey, it was around 10.00 a.m.
The plan for the day was to drive around the entire Jaffna Peninsula, beginning from the town and continuing along the eastern edge of the peninsula toward the Chundikkulam Lagoon. Some friends had informed us that, during low tide, it might be possible to cross the lagoon and continue along the coastal road toward Mullaitivu.
Through Mandathivu and Kayts
We departed from Jaffna town, crossed the Mandathivu causeway once again, and reached Mandathivu Island. From there, we continued to the larger island of Kayts. Known in ancient times as Urathota (Uruthota), Kayts was once an important port in ancient Sri Lanka. According to the Nagadeepa Tamil inscription, during the reign of King Parakramabahu I (1153–1186), Urathota served as a special harbour for Indian merchant vessels, and the king paid particular attention to ships transporting horses and elephants through this port.
The name Kayts originated during the Portuguese period. It was derived from the term Caes dos Elefantes, meaning “elephant’s mouth.” The Portuguese used this name because Sri Lankan elephants were exported to India through this harbour. Over time, Caes dos Elefantes was shortened to Cais. After the Portuguese were expelled and the Dutch arrived in Jaffna, the name gradually evolved into Kays and later into Kayts.
Kayts and Karaitivu Island are connected by a government-operated ferry service provided free of charge. The ferryman confirmed that the ferry could transport vehicles as well. Although the often-unreliable reputation of ferries in Sri Lanka made us hesitant at first, we eventually decided to load our vehicles onto the ferry and cross over to Karaitivu Island.
The Buddhist Heritage of Karaitivu
The island of Karaitivu has deep roots in Buddhist history. In ancient times, it was known as Karadeepa (Kara Divaina). The island is mentioned in the Akitti Jataka (Akeerthi Jataka), one of the 550 Jataka tales of the Buddha. According to the story, an ascetic named Akitti, seeking solitude, left for a park in Kavirapattana and later travelled to the country of Soli. Residing in a park opposite Kavirapattana, he developed mystical states of meditation and supernatural abilities. He subsequently travelled through the air and descended upon the island of Kara, situated opposite the island of Naga. At that time, Karadeepa was known as Ahidipa, meaning the Isle of Snakes.
We drove through Karainagar on Karaitivu Island and crossed the causeway linking the island to mainland Jaffna. From Ponnalai on the mainland, we took the northernmost road closest to the coastline and arrived at Dambakolapatuna, the site where Theri Sangamitta landed in 306 BCE with a sapling of the Sri Maha Bodhi from India.
To commemorate the arrival of the sacred Bo sapling, King Devanampiya Tissa (307-267 BCE) constructed the temple known as Samudda-panasala (Jambukola Viharaya). The king later planted one of the first eight shoots of the Sri Maha Bodhi at the same location where the original sapling had been kept before being taken to Anuradhapura. King Vijayabahu I (1070–1110) later restored the site. Although remains of the ancient vihara, including a Buddha footprint stone and a vatadage, survived until relatively recent times, they no longer exist today.
Dambakolapatuna Today
Unfortunately, very little at the temple today reflects its ancient heritage. Most of the structures currently visible, including the stupa completed in a remarkable 65 days, were constructed by the Sri Lankan Navy following the defeat of the LTTE. Even the present Bo tree was planted by the Navy in 1998.
Along the Northern Coastline
We continued along the same road, passing Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil, Keerimalai Sirappar Madam (Ambalama), the Kankesanthurai Lighthouse, Sakkottai Point, and the Point Pedro Lighthouse.
Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil is regarded as the oldest Siva temple in Sri Lanka, and the famous Keerimalai natural springs belong to the same temple complex. Near the car park stand the ruins of the ancient madam (ambalama) of Keerimalai. It is among the largest, if not the largest, ambalams in the country and is also one of the very few such structures found in the Jaffna Peninsula.
The Kankesanthurai Lighthouse is located near the KKS harbour. Both the harbour and the lighthouse are enclosed within ancient fortified walls constructed during the Portuguese and Dutch periods. The lighthouse, built in 1893, stands 22 m (72 ft) tall.
Sakkottai Point is actually the northernmost point of Sri Lanka, despite the common misconception that Point Pedro holds this distinction. The Point Pedro Lighthouse stands at the northeastern corner of Sri Lanka. Built in 1916, the lighthouse rises to a height of 32 m (105 ft).
It was past 1.00 p.m. by the time we arrived at Point Pedro.
The Journey to Chundikkulam
We then travelled along the eastern edge of the Jaffna Peninsula on the Point Pedro–Maruthankerny road, which had recently been resurfaced. Midway through the route, Google Maps indicated a parallel beach road running close to the shoreline. At the first opportunity, we turned toward this sandy track, which passed several fishing huts along the coast.
After travelling approximately 15 km (9.3 mi) along the beach road, we reached Chundikkulam.
Chundikkulam Lagoon and its surrounding areas were declared a bird sanctuary on 25 February 1938 under the Fauna and Flora Protection Ordinance (No. 2 of 1937). However, due to terrorist activity between 1980 and 2010, the area remained inaccessible for many years. Following the defeat of the terrorists in 2009, the sanctuary was expanded westward toward Elephant Pass and southeastward toward Chalai and Pallamatalan. It was officially designated a National Park on 22 June 2015, covering an area of 19,565 ha (48,347 acres).
Mangrove swamps and seagrass beds partially surround Chundikkulam Lagoon. The surrounding landscape also includes palmyra plantations, scrub forests, and a diverse range of dry-zone vegetation.
Return Through Elephant Pass
Sand dunes lined the sandy road through Chundikkulam, though the route remained drivable. During low tide, it is sometimes possible to cross the lagoon and continue toward the Mullaitivu side. Unfortunately, the water level was too high when we arrived, making the crossing impossible. Our only option was to retrace our route halfway back, return to the A2 highway, and leave Jaffna through Elephant Pass.
We drove back to the mainland through Elephant Pass, passing through Paranthan, Vishvamadu, and Puthukkudiyiruppu before finally reaching our destination for the day, Mullaitivu. It was around 7.30 p.m. when we arrived, having travelled approximately 275 km (171 mi).
Night by the Beach
We spent the night near the eastern coastline beneath palmyra trees, with a bonfire burning on the beach beside us.
Day 3
We woke to the sunrise along the eastern coast on the third day and enjoyed a sea bath before continuing the journey. Breakfast was taken on the way to Panama at around 9.30 a.m.
Because of time constraints, we were unable to visit Kokkilai Lagoon and instead continued toward Trincomalee, driving around the lagoon. Our plan was to stay at a location near Peanut Farm Beach in Panama.
We arrived in Panama at approximately 5.45 p.m., just in time to witness a beautiful sunset spreading across the golden paddy fields.
Shortly after sunset, we encountered a large herd of elephants and spent some time observing them. By the time we left, darkness had completely fallen, and there was no one else around. We drove back and forth through Panama in the pitch dark searching for the road leading to Peanut Farm Beach. After nearly 30–40 minutes of searching without success, we decided to abandon the attempt and returned to Arugam Bay, where we found and booked two small yet cosy rooms near the beach for the night.
On the third day, we covered a distance of approximately 285 km (177 mi).
Day 4
We began the fourth day early, leaving at around 7.00 a.m. to visit Okanda Devalaya, the final point along the eastern coastline before turning back toward home. Driving once again through Panama, we reached Okanda Devalaya at approximately 9.30 a.m., where we had a breakfast of pol roti.
After visiting the Devalaya, we continued driving through the jungle up to the entrance of Kumana National Park. From there, we turned back and drove toward Pottuvil. On the return journey, after considerable difficulty, we finally located the turn-off leading to Peanut Farm Beach. The route took us along winding roads through dense jungle before finally opening onto the beach. It was around 12.30 p.m. when we departed from the beach.
Visit to Sangamankanda
Due to time limitations on the previous day, we had skipped visiting Sangamankanda, the easternmost point of the island. We therefore decided to continue onward to the Sangamankanda Lighthouse as the final stop of the journey.
The road to this location runs through narrow routes passing plantations and small villages. Vehicles can be driven almost all the way to the lighthouse and the vast, unspoilt beach nearby. After helping recover one vehicle that had become stuck in the sand, we left the lighthouse at around 2.30 p.m.
Return Journey
We drove back to Pottuvil, took the Monaragala road, and later joined the Southern Expressway for the journey home, finally arriving at around 2.00 a.m. the following day.
The fourth day involved the longest drive of the trip, covering approximately 550 km (342 mi). In total, the entire journey amounted to about 1,600 km (994 mi).
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