Damila Maha Seya (Demala Maha Seya)

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Demala Maha Seya - Polonnaruwa — The massive pesa walalu of the stupa

The Damila Maha Seya in Polonnaruwa is a colossal, unfinished 12th-century stupa commissioned by King Parākramabāhu the Great. Built by South Indian prisoners, its massive circumference suggests it was intended to be the world’s largest Buddhist monument, now appearing as a vast, forest-covered mound with a smaller secondary stupa atop its summit.

Located within the ancient city complex of Polonnaruwa, this massive, unfinished stupa—known as Damila Maha Seya (or Demala Maha Seya)—lies between Gal Viharaya and Thivanka Pilimage in what is now a protected archaeological zone.

Historical Background

The Mahavamsa, the Great Chronicle of Sri Lanka, provides a detailed account of King Parakramabahu the Great (r. 1153–1186) and his campaign against the Pandya kingdom in South India. Following his victory, he brought back Tamil prisoners of war and ordered that they be employed in restoring stupas destroyed during earlier invasions, as well as in reconstructing the dilapidated Ruwanweli Seya in Anuradhapura.

The chronicle further records that he commissioned a colossal stupa measuring 1,300 cubits in circumference, described as second to none. This monument came to be known as Demala Seya, as it was constructed using Tamil labor.

Construction and Scale

For reasons that remain unclear, the construction of this stupa was never completed. At a later stage, a smaller stupa was built atop the unfinished hemispherical base. One interpretation suggests that the name may have evolved from Demahal (meaning “two-storied”), referring to this dual-level construction, which later transformed into Damila Seya.

Had it been completed, the stupa is estimated to have reached a height of approximately 186 metres (570 feet), making it the largest Buddhist monument ever constructed. Its circumference is believed to have been around 650 meters (approximately). It is also said that King Parakramabahu intended the monument to be visible from India and thus planned its immense scale accordingly.

Identification and Early Misinterpretation

In the early twentieth century, a different structure was mistakenly identified as Demala Maha Seya, and much of the early scholarship refers to this incorrect identification. The exact identity of the misattributed structure remains uncertain. However, the Archaeological Report of 1905 corrected this error, identifying the true monument described in the Mahavamsa as what was then known as Unagala Vehera.

The chronicle describes this monument as “the greatest of all the thupas, one thousand three hundred cubits round about,” built by King Parakramabahu the Great. Situated between the brick shrine and Gal Vihare, the site today appears as a vast, forest-covered mound—now called Unagala Vehera. Apart from scattered brick debris on its slopes, there is little visible evidence of its true identity other than its immense size and location. The Mahavamsa further notes that it was called the Damila Thupa because the Damilas (Tamils), brought from the Pandu country after its conquest, were employed in its construction.

The true “Demala Maha Seya – the greatest of all the thupas, one thousand three hundred cubits round about,” constructed by Parakrama Bahu the Great—lies between the brick shrine and the ” GalVihare” Tins immense straggling hillock, forest-covered (known now-a-days as “UnagalaVehera”), except for brickbats strewn about its slopes, affords hardly any indication of its identity save in magnitude and position. “It was,” says the Mahawansa, “called the Damila Thupa, because that the Damilas (Tamils) who were brought here from the Pandu country, after it had been conquered, were also employed in the building thereof.”

Modern Condition and Restoration

The site was once cleared and partially restored, but these efforts were later abandoned. Since around 2017, restoration work has recommenced, although progress has been notably slow.

Damila Maha Seya remains rarely visited, largely due to the severely deteriorated condition of the access road. Even four-wheel-drive vehicles may struggle to reach the site fully. However, the final approach involves only a short walk of approximately 50 meters (164 feet), which is considered well worth the effort.

Present Appearance

Today, the stupa appears as a massive mound covered with dense vegetation, giving little outward indication of its original purpose. The only visible structural elements are portions of three outer rings (pesa walalu), each extending roughly 10 meters (32.8 feet) in length. Beyond these rings, a footpath leads to the summit.

The ascent is somewhat challenging but rewarding. The flattened summit of Damila Maha Seya is expansive—large enough to accommodate a football field—and is overgrown with large trees. At its center stands the smaller stupa, likely constructed during a later period. Visitors who climb to this upper structure are rewarded with a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape.

References

Mahanama, Geiger, W., & Bode, M. H. (1912). The Mahavamsa or the Great Chronicle of Ceylon. Translated into English by Wilhelm Geiger. For the Pali Text Society by Henry Frowde.
Bell, H. C. P. (1909). Archaeological Survey of Ceylon—North Central, Central and Northern Provinces Annual Report 1905. H M Richards, Acting Government Printer.

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Map of Damila Maha Seya (Demala Maha Seya) at Ancient Capital of Polonnaruwa

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Driving Directions to Polonnaruwa Sacred City

The modern town of Polonnaruwa is also known as New Town, and the other part of Polonnaruwa remains the ancient royal city of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Route from Colombo to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Kandy to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Central Highway—Kurunegala—Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 230 km Travel Time: 5 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Batticaloa to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time : 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.