Hunupola Kandegama Rajamaha Viharaya

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Hidden within the village of Hunupola lies the ancient Kandegama Rajamaha Viharaya, a cave temple that preserves rare paintings, sculptures, and inscriptions dating back over two millennia. Step inside to witness echoes of the Anuradhapura and Kandyan eras, now carefully conserved against time’s decay.

Nestled in the Grama Niladhari Division of Hunupola, within the Ibbagamuwa Divisional Secretariat of the Kurunegala District, the Hunupola Kandegama Rajamaha Viharaya is an ancient cave temple rich in history and artistry. Though relatively unknown, this site preserves a unique blend of Anuradhapura-era antiquity and Kandyan-period artistry.

Location and Access

To reach the temple, one must turn left from the Colombo–Dambulla road at Muttettugala and proceed through Wellawa, crossing the Deduru Oya on the Ganewatta road. After traveling about 1 kilometer, turn right at the Hunupola junction. The Hunupola Bodhiya (Bo Tree) appears approximately 5 kilometers along this route, and the temple lies another half a kilometer further on after turning right from that point.

Historical Background

It is popularly believed that this region was a flourishing settlement during the Anuradhapura Era in the 1st century BCE. The Mahavamsa (Great Chronicle) recounts that Prince Pandukabhaya came from Levakanda, lived for four years at Dolugala in Dolukanda, and later moved to Dimbulagala. Tradition holds that the area where his army camped became known as Hunupola.

According to Professor Senarath Paranavitana, the rock inscriptions found near the drip-ledged cave of the Vihara and another nearby cave date back to the 2nd and 1st centuries BCE. writing on the temple walls also suggest that the same artists who painted the famed Dambulla Cave Temple had also adorned this Viharaya. Sadly, much of this artistic legacy now faces deterioration.

Architecture and Sculptures

The cave temple measures approximately 12.5 meters (41 ft) in length and 8 meters (26 ft) in width. Within it rests a reclining Buddha statue about 9.8 meters (32 ft) long, two Samadhi Buddha statues each around 2 meters (6.5 ft) high, and six standing Buddha statues about 2.3 meters (7.5 ft) high.

Two guardian figures flank the sides of the Makara Thorana (Dragon Archway), which is now entirely coated with lime plaster. A notable architectural feature is a small stupa, about 3.6 meters (12 ft) tall, found within the cave near the right wall of the Viharaya.

The temple walls, made of clay mixed with cobblestones (sakkagal), are about 0.9 meters (3 ft) thick and coated with lime-sand plaster.

Murals and Artistic Features

The inner walls of the temple are adorned with intricate paintings divided into several horizontal strips. The lowest strip, about 0.9 meters (3 ft) wide, portrays a line of Arahant figures holding Kadupul (Flower of the Heavens) blossoms. Above this are panels depicting the Suvisi Vivarana (the 24 past Buddhas) and Solosmasthana (the 16 sacred sites). Other mural panels illustrate the Sath Sathiya—the seven weeks spent by the Buddha following Enlightenment—along with floral vine motifs.

The ceiling is beautifully decorated with canopy-style paintings featuring numerous Buddha images. Among the most striking artworks are scenes depicting the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta (the first sermon), divine processions of offerings, and the intricate Somana Weaving design.

Present Condition and Conservation Efforts

In recent years, the site has suffered from both human interference and natural decay. The pillow of the reclining Buddha statue was destroyed by treasure hunters, though that section has since been chemically conserved.

Major deterioration issues included hollow spaces between plaster layers, cracks, plaster flaking, and pigment powdering. Some parts of the Makara Thorana sculptures had lost their hands, while deposits left by termites and potter wasps were found on murals and statues.

Conservation measures involved reattaching the broken sculpture parts, injecting polyvinyl acetate to stabilize plaster layers, and mechanically cleaning biological deposits. The damaged stupa inside the cave was also structurally conserved.

References

Godakumbura, C. E. (1964). Administration Report of the Archaeological Commissioner for the Financial Year 1962-63: Part IV – Education, Science and Art (G). Government of Ceylon.
Dissanayake, S. B. (2023). 2015 වර්ෂය සඳහා පුරාවිද්‍යා අධ්‍යක්‍ෂක ජනරාල්ගේ පාලන වාර්තාව. Department of Archaeology, Sri Lanka.

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