Thaniwella Devalaya at Madampe

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As you travel along the Colombo–Puttalam road past Wenappuwa towards Puttalam, one striking sight that captures every passerby’s attention is a Devalaya marked by a dramatic statue—a massive white horse rearing on its hind legs, facing away from the road. This is the famous Thaniwella Devalaya (also spelled Thaniwelle Devalaya), a place where many travelers pause briefly to drop a coin into the offering box, a gesture of reverence.

Unlike most devalayas in Sri Lanka, which are dedicated to a deity and often display a statue of that deity prominently at the entrance, Thaniwella Devalaya draws attention through its imposing statue of the white horse. With its front legs lifted in a stance that resembles an act of devotion, the horse appears to pay homage to the deity enshrined within.

The Deity of Thaniwella

This sacred site is dedicated to Thaniwelle Bandara Deviyo, a deity venerated uniquely in this region. The story of Thaniwelle Bandara Deviyo is as captivating as it is complex.

During the reign of King Weera Parakramabahu VIII of the Kotte Kingdom (1477–1489), the king was married to two sisters and fathered five sons: Dharma Parakramabahu, Sri Rajasinghe, and Vijayabahu from one queen; Sakalakala Vallabha and Thaniya Wallabha from the other. Upon reaching adulthood, the sons were each given authority over separate regions to rule as provincial kings. Dharma Parakramabahu governed from Kotte, Sri Rajasinghe from Manikkadawara, Vijayabahu from Raigama, Sakalakala Vallabha from Udugampola, and Thaniya Wallabha from Madampe. For many years, these five rulers cooperated harmoniously, contributing to the political and economic stability of the kingdom.

Thaniya Wallabha, who ruled from Madampe, is especially remembered for his contributions to local development. Among his most notable accomplishments is the construction of the Maha Wewa reservoir, which was instrumental in supporting agriculture in the region. Remarkably, this reservoir still exists today, located about 2.5 kilometers before the Devalaya, continuing to nourish nearby paddy fields.

A Death Surrounded by Mystery

The circumstances surrounding Thaniya Wallabha’s death remain a subject of legend and speculation. One version tells of a war he fought alongside his brother Sakalakala Vallabha, possibly against a Soli or Muslim force. According to tradition, a white flag would be raised to signal victory and a black flag to indicate defeat. This allowed the palace and townspeople to either prepare a celebratory welcome or brace for mourning.

The man tasked with raising the flag, known as the Adapparaya, is said to have been in love with the queen. In a tragic twist, he hoisted a black flag despite their victory, hoping the queen would flee the palace. Instead, the queen, believing her husband dead, took her own life. Some accounts claim that the king, upon learning of her fate, also took his life, while others suggest he left the palace to spend his remaining years in meditation.

Another tale claims that the king was not a victim of mistaken signals or grief, but was in fact murdered by his grandson, Veediye Bandara, around 1853. Though these stories vary, what remains consistent is the reverence that followed his death. Like many kings who had greatly impacted their subjects, Thaniya Wallabha was posthumously deified as Thaniwelle Bandara Deviyo.

The Legacy of the Devalaya

Although the exact origins of the Thaniwella Devalaya are unclear, the current structure dates back to 1894. The sacred Bo tree within the premises is believed to be at least 250 years old. Thaniwella Devalaya continues to intrigue travelers today, but few would know the colorful history of the deity for which this unique place of worship was built.

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