Dolukanda Ancient Fort and the Mountain

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Rising like a fortress of legend, Dolukanda Mountain is where history, myth, and breathtaking views collide. Once home to ancient kings and whispered in the Ramayana as a fragment of the Himalayas, it hides ruined palaces, eerie Rakshasa tales, and even a vanishing orchard said to feed the lost. Today, its windswept plateau rewards trekkers with some of the finest panoramas in Sri Lanka.

Dolukanda is a mountain in Sri Lanka’s Kurunegala District, located near the village of Hiripitiya, about 20 kilometers north of Kurunegala town. The ridge of this rocky mountain extends for about 2 kilometers, rising to a height of 600 meters and offering unmatched panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

Ancient Ruins of Dolukanda

Hocart (1928, p.17) observed that Dolukanda must once have been a fortress, given its near-impossible accessibility and strategic suitability as a lookout for detecting enemy movements. Similar to Sigiriya and Yapahuva, the remains found at the site include both religious and secular structures. Dhammika (2008/2018) further notes that on the plateau stand remnants of King Silámeghavanna’s (623-632 CE) fortress, along with pillars and a bathing pond.

The plateau itself is called Maligathanne, or palace grounds, by locals, owing to scattered ruins believed to be those of an ancient royal palace. Unfortunately, these remains have been disturbed and destroyed by treasure hunters searching for hidden wealth.

Godakumbura (1967) records the presence of a ruined stupa measuring 125 feet in diameter, with its remains still standing up to 12 feet in height. The structure had been disturbed by treasure hunters, who had dug into it from the top. Even the rock slab on the maluwa (terrace) of the stupa had been broken due to their destructive activities.

Many scholars identify Dolukanda with “Dohalapabbata,” mentioned in the Mahavamsa. Historical accounts state that King Silámeghavanna used it as a base just before defeating King Mogallana III, who had treacherously captured his father and mutilated him. Later records also note that King Kìrti Srì Rájasingha attended a temple ceremony near Dolukanda (D. T. Devendra, 1941).

Man-Eating of Rakshasas of Dolukanda

The mountain is also entwined with folklore about Rakshasas. According to Parker (1914/1971), Rakshasas were once thought to inhabit the forests near the northwestern end of the Dolukanda hills, particularly near a village of tom-tom beaters. These beings were distinct from the Yakshas of Ceylon, being much larger than humans and capable of assuming different forms. They were described as having long, bangle-shaped teeth as thick as a boy’s arm, tangled hair falling over their bodies, and a frightening appearance. Despite their monstrous nature, they built fine houses filled with wealth, reared horses and parrots, and were feared for seizing and eating humans and animals alike. Unlike Yakshas, who only frightened people, Rakshasas killed and devoured their human victims.

The Mysterious Orchard

Dolukanda is also linked with other myths. Devendra (1941) records the belief in a mysterious orchard on the mountain that offers abundant fruits. The orchard becomes visible and accessible only to famished wanderers of the forest but elusive to deliberate seekers.

On the Ramayana Trail

The mountain’s most famous association, however, is with the Ramayana epic. In this ancient Indian tale, Ravana, the demon king of Lanka, abducted Sita, wife of Rama. During the battle to rescue her, Rama’s brother Lakshman was gravely wounded and could only be saved by special medicinal herbs found in the Himalayas. Hanuman, the monkey god, was sent to fetch them but, forgetting the names of the herbs, carried away a portion of the entire mountain. On his journey to Lanka, fragments of the mountain are believed to have fallen at five places: Kachchativu Island, Thalladi near Mannar, Ritigala, Dolukanda near Arankale, and Rumassala. These sites still host unique ecosystems with rare medicinal plants absent from the surrounding regions.

Finest Viewpoints

With its half-kilometer-long plateau, unusual rock formations, caves and sweeping views, Dolukanda is now a popular destination for hikers and those following the Ramayana Trail. The trek, though somewhat challenging, is manageable. It begins at Dolukanda Rajamaha Viharaya, situated on the mountain’s western slope. Since there is no proper path through the forest, local guides from the village are essential.

At the summit, visitors are rewarded with stunning vistas, with two northern edges of the plateau identified as the finest viewpoints.

References

Devendra, D. T. (1941). This Other Lanka (1st ed.). Ola Book Company.
Dhammika, B. S. (2018). Sacred Island: A Buddhist Pilgrim’s Guide to Sri Lanka (1st ed.). Buddhist Publication Society. (Original work published 2008)
Godakumbura, C. E. (1967). Administration Report of the Archaeological Commissioner for the financial year 1964-65: Part IV – Education, Science and Art (G). Government of Ceylon.
Hocart, A. M. (1928). Annual Report of the Archaeological Survay of Ceylon for 1926-27. H Ross Cottle, Government Printer.
Parker, H. (1971). Village Folk-Tales of Ceylon: Vol. III–III (Reprint Edition). Arno Press Inc. (Original work published 1914)

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Driving Directions to Dolukanda Mountain

Route from Colombo to Dolukanda Mountain

Though : Katunayake Expressway – Mirigama – Central Expressway – Kurunegala
distance : 126 km
Travel time : 2.5 hours
Driving directions : see on Google Maps