Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya

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Standing as the spiritual heart of Ratnapura, the Maha Saman Devalaya is dedicated to the guardian deity Saman, protector of Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak). Blending history, devotion, and vibrant traditions, the shrine draws thousands of pilgrims each year, especially during its grand annual perahera—a festival of color, drumming, and dance that keeps centuries-old customs alive.

The Sabaragamuwa Maha Saman Devalaya is considered the main Devalaya of the deity Saman except for the Shrine at the top of Sri Pada.

The history speaks of a temple in the Ratnapura area since the time of King Dutugemunu (161-137 BCE) of Anuradhapura Kingdom. However, the recent history of this devalaya starts from the Dambadeniya period.

A court minister called Aryakamadeva had come over to Ratnapura to make a vow for gemming and, if lucky, to build a Devalaya to keep God Sumana Saman’s statue. After a successful gem mining expedition, he is said to have built the first devalaya dedicated to God Saman at Ratnapura. Although the devalaya was highly influenced by Hindu culture, it remained a Buddhist place of worship throughout the years.

The Portuguese first landed in Sri Lanka in 1505 through the Galle Port. With the demise of Sitawaka Rajasinghe, the Portuguese marched towards Sitawaka destroying and looting temples on the way. These included Delgamuwa Raja Maha Viharaya, Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya, and Pothgul Viharaya, which were highly venerated by the Buddhists. The Ratnapura Fort and a church were built on the ground of Saman Devalaya around 1618-1620 by the Portuguese.

Later King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe (1747 – 1781) of the Kandyan Kingdom recaptured the Ratnapura, destroyed the church and the Portuguese Fort at Ratnapura, and built a temple (Maha Saman Devalaya) on the site. It is believed that the current temple is the temple built by King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe.

In 1803, the British looted this devale again during their Kandyan campaign. Cordiner (1807, p 252) writes

“The apartments of the Pagoda afforded excellent shelter for the troops; who found, in several chests, a greater quantity of silver and copper coins than they were capable of carrying away. The Malays, probably from motives of superstition, refused to receive any share of them: and almost all the indigent coolies disdained the sacrilege of either entering the Pagoda or touching the coin. The idols had been removed, but a great many beautiful elephants’ tusks and other curious articles remained, which could not be brought away.”

There are two platforms here. The lower platform is gained through two vahalkadas on the east and the south. A flight of steps on the eastern side provides access from the lower platform to the upper platform. Prakara walls around the platform are clad at the top with tiles. Opposite the flight of steps leading to the upper terrace is the santi maduwa of the devala, which is a pillared structure provided with dwarfs on either side. Openings are provided on this dwarf wall for obtaining access to the image house on the north and to the Pattini Devala on the south. The dig-ge has wooden posts.

The three-storied structure at the end of the Dig-Ge is known as the palace. To one who looks at it from afar, the palace looks like a dagoba. The vihara here is built on a high stereobate and is surrounded by verandas. It has ancient paintings. There is an ancient bo-tree south of the flight of steps leading to the upper terrace.

Portuguese Sculpture and the Inscription

In the devala premises is a sculptured stone of the Portuguese period which portrays a Portuguese soldier with a brandished sword trampling a Sinhalese soldier. On the slab is a Portuguese inscription which is a short description of the Portuguese general.

Portuguese Mural and the inscription at Maha Saman Devalaya in Ratnapura

This inscription states;

With this [sword] I overcame this [man], it being 23 (?) years that I have been in India, and 15 (?) that I have served as captain ; and as soon as (?) the kings and the king of Jafanapatao, I, Simao Pinhao, conquered him.
(Ferguson, 1899)

The defeated warrior is believed to be Ratnayake Muniyanse, the custodian of the gold stores of the Maha Saman Devalaya, who demolished the church inside their fort and killed many Portuguese soldiers (Gnanawimala, 1942). However, some believe this to be warriors Edirimannasinghe or Kuruwitarala.

According to a palm leaf manuscript written about this battle, Simao Pinnao (Simao Pinhao) was a Portuguese man who was convicted of cutting up the face of a man with a sword. He was imprisoned for 5 years in Africa. He escaped from the prison, and his father sent him to India to work as a sailor. Here he was again convicted for stealing from a disabled ship near Bacaim Beach (in Vasi, India). It is believed he was banished to Sri Lanka after this incident. Here he served for Dom Jerónimo de Azevedo (1560-1625), governor of Portuguese Ceylon and viceroy of Portuguese India. In 1601 he managed to marry a grandchild of King Rajasinhe Dona Maria Pereira, and managed to rise to the captain of the Portuguese army. (Gnanawimala, 1942)

restored paintings at Maha Saman Devalaya, Ratnapura

The Buddha Image House at Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya

ancient stupa with brick columns surrounding it

Portuguese Sculpture and the Inscription at Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya

References

Gnanawimala, K. (1942) සපරගමූවේ පැරණි ලියවිලි . Colombo, Sri Lanka: Kirielle J. M. Samarakoon Bandara.
Maha Saman Devala, Kuruvita Korale, Devalegama (no date) Maha Saman Devale, Ratnapura. Available at: https://sripada.org/saman-devale2.htm (Accessed: 15 January 2024).
Ferguson, D.W. (1899) ‘The Inscribed Mural Stone at the Maha Saman Déválé, Ratnapura’, The Journal of the Ceylon Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Britain & Ireland, 16(50), pp. 84–114.
Cordiner, J. (1807). A Description of Ceylon, Containing an Account of the Country, Inhabitants, and Natural Productions : With Narratives of a Tour Round the Island in 1800, the Campaign in Candy in 1803, and a Journey to Ramisseram in 1804. Longman, Hurst, Rees, and Orme, Paternoster Row and a. Brown, Aberdeen.

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Route 1 from Colombo to Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya	Route 2 from Colombo to Ratnapura Maha Saman Devalaya
Through : Kesbewa – Horana – Ratnapura Distance : 88 km Travel time : 2 hours Driving directions : see on Google map	Through : Kaduwela – Avissawella – Ratnapura Distance : 100 km Travel time : 2.15 hours Driving directions: see on Google map