Pothgul Vehera (Polonnaruwa) | AmazingLanka.com

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Remains of the Pothgul Vehera in Polonnaruwa
Published under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 by Aitor Garcia Viñas

Standing just south of Polonnaruwa’s citadel, Potgul Vehera is one of Sri Lanka’s most intriguing medieval monuments. Long known as the “Library Monastery,” its massive brick rotunda, ancient murals, and debated function reveal a lost center of Buddhist learning and royal patronage.

Situated about 1.5 kilometers south of the ancient Citadel of Polonnaruwa, Potgul Vehera stands as one of the most distinctive and enigmatic monuments of Sri Lanka’s medieval capital. Traditionally referred to as the “Library Monastery,” the complex extends over approximately 1.2 hectares (3 acres).

The principal brick structure was built in four ascending stages. The third terrace contains the foundations of nine buildings, generally interpreted as residential quarters for monks. At the summit stands a circular edifice that once supported a dome-shaped roof, now lost. Despite this, fragments of wall paintings are still visible, bearing silent witness to more than eight centuries of exposure to the elements.

Function and Scholarly Interpretation

The original function of Potgul Vehera remains a matter of scholarly debate. Popular tradition identifies the circular structure as a potgul, or library, intended for the storage of sacred manuscripts, though firm archaeological evidence for this interpretation is lacking beyond the later name of the site. Excavations and architectural analysis instead suggest that the complex functioned as a monastery, possibly serving as a specialised educational institution or pirivena for learned monks. The presence of small “pseudo-dagabas” at the four corners of the main terrace conclusively identifies the monument as Buddhist rather than Hindu (Studio Times, 1973).

Foundation, Patronage, and Restoration

The initial establishment of the monastery is generally attributed to King Parākramabāhu I (1153–1186 CE), with subsequent embellishment and expansion carried out by his successor Niśśaṅkamalla. However, inscriptions discovered on a fallen door jamb indicate that the monument underwent major rebuilding or restoration under Queen Candravati (also known as Rūpavatī), the chief queen of Parākramabāhu, after her installation as ruler (Mitton, 1917).

Later efforts to revive the declining splendor of Polonnaruwa were undertaken in the late 13th century by Vijayabāhu IV and Parākramabāhu III. These initiatives, however, achieved only limited success, and the city was eventually abandoned and reclaimed by the jungle (Paranavitana, 1950).

Gedige Architectural Form

Potgul Vehera is a notable example of the Gedige architectural tradition, comprising a central rotunda connected to a rectangular vestibule on its eastern side (Bell, 1911). The structure is renowned for its massive brick walls, which measure nearly 4.6 meters (15 feet) thick at the base. This extraordinary thickness was necessary to support the immense weight of the original corbelled brick dome (Mitton, 1917).

The exterior was once richly decorated with lime stucco, featuring pilasters and false altars with recessed niches. Within the circular chamber, remnants of delicate floral murals survive, offering rare glimpses of the original decorative programme (Bell, 1911).

Decline, Rediscovery, and Conservation

Following the 13th century, Polonnaruwa gradually disappeared beneath dense jungle growth and remained largely forgotten for more than five centuries. During this long period of neglect, Potgul Vehera suffered extensive damage at the hands of treasure seekers. In the 1880s, the circular chamber was stripped down to its foundations under orders from a Kandyan chief who believed sacred manuscripts were hidden within its walls (Mitton, 1917; Bell, 1911).

The site re-entered scholarly awareness in the early 19th century through the efforts of explorers such as Lieutenant M. H. Fagan. Systematic archaeological clearance commenced in 1904 under the Archaeological Survey of Ceylon, directed by H. C. P. Bell (Mitton, 1917). Subsequent conservation work has stabilized the surviving brick vaults and the finely carved elephant bas-reliefs on the terrace, enabling present-day visitors to experience a monument once associated with the highest levels of medieval Buddhist learning (Paranavitana, 1950).

Ancient plaster inside the dome of Pothgul Vehera - Polonnaruwa

Granite door frame in to the Pothgul Vehera - Polonnaruwa

References

Bell, H. C. P. (1911). Archaeological Survey of Ceylon: North Central, Northern and Central Provinces – Annual Report 1907. H.C. Cottle.
Paranavitana, S. (1950). Guide to Polonnaruwa (3rd ed.). Government Press. (Original work published 1948)
Mitton, G. (1917). The Lost Cities of Ceylon. Frederick A. Stokes Company.
Studio Times. (1973). Handbook for the Ceylon Traveller (1st ed.).

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Map of Pothgul Vehera at the Ancient Capital of Polonnaruwa

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Driving Directions to Polonnaruwa Sacred City

The modern town of Polonnaruwa is also known as New Town, and the other part of Polonnaruwa remains the ancient royal city of the Kingdom of Polonnaruwa.

Route from Colombo to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Kandy to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Central Highway—Kurunegala—Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 230 km Travel Time: 5 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route from Anuradhapura to Polonnaruwa Sacred City	Route from Batticaloa to Polonnaruwa Sacred City
Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time: 2 hours Driving Directions: See on Google Maps.	Through: Maradankadawala–Habarana Distance: 103 km Travel Time : 2 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.