Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya

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The long reclining Buddha statue in the second cave at the Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya
Photo by : Salitha Hettiarachchi

If you’ve ever traveled the Colombo–Kandy road, chances are you’ve passed Kadugannawa Hill without realizing the ancient sanctuary that lies just beyond view. Few take the time to descend from the road near the lower Kadugannawa Ambalama (resting place) and explore the cave temple nestled quietly in the jungle below. A short 200-meter walk down the slope to the right of the main road leads you to a little-known spiritual haven.

Walagamba Len Viharaya: The Secret of Mawela

Located in Mawela village in lower Kadugannawa, the Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya lies within the Gannawa Pattu of Galbada Korale of Hatarakorale. This village sits on the border between the Kegalle and Kandy districts, which is why the temple is often referred to by the village name. Before the British built the Colombo–Kandy road by excavating through Kadugannawa rock in the early 1800s, the route to the Viharaya followed the hill slope from the Hingula–Heenatipone road. That path eventually became obsolete and overgrown.

In recent times, a new concrete path has been laid from the lower Kadugannawa road, making the Viharaya easily accessible to visitors and devotees.

A Journey Through Nature

As you descend toward the temple, the wind sweeps in from the distant mountains and plains, offering a refreshing reprieve from the heat. The view unfolds gracefully—the paddy fields of Mawela in the valley below, green gardens all around, and the towering Hatarakorale mountain range above. Among the hills, Batalegala stands out prominently.

This natural beauty, undoubtedly a source of inspiration for meditating monks in ancient times, must have served as a focal point for their spiritual practice.

The path takes you past a small waterfall cascading down a rocky cliff. The spray turns to mist as the water splashes against stone. Ferns thrive here in the cool shade, and monkeys leap among the branches. The entire landscape exudes tranquility and wild serenity.

The Ancient Cave Complex

Beyond the waterfall lies the sacred temple complex. The Viharaya is built along a massive rock slab on the hillside, containing three caves, each with drip-ledged entrances. The first cave houses a stupa, the second contains the Viharaya (shrine room), and the third serves as the Sanghavasa (monks’ quarters). Above the rock, a wooded canopy shelters animals like rabbits, mouse deer, and civets, creating a natural refuge.

Inside the first cave, a reclining Buddha statue in the Parinirvana pose has been vandalized at the headrest. On April 4, 1998, six intruders tied up the monks, desecrated the statue, and searched for hidden treasures. Although it was restored, it suffered further damage on November 8, 2001, and again on November 24, 2002.

Mawela is not alone in this fate. Other historic temples in Hatarakorale, including Danakirigala, Devanagala, and Alawatura Ganegoda, have also been victims of such treasure hunts.

Tracing Ancient Origins

Local folklore attributes the temple’s origin to King Walagamba, as with many cave temples. However, the architectural elements—such as the Korawakgalas (balustrades) and muragala (guard stones) adorned with Pun Kalasa (pots of plenty)—at the entrance of the second cave provide confirmation of the early origin, likely dating to the early Anuradhapura period.

On one Korawakgala, an inscription in early Anuradhapura Brahmi script reads Botimasha (Botimage), implying that a person named Botima may have been responsible for commissioning this or carving these artifacts.

Interestingly, the connection to King Walagamba appears to be a later addition. H.C.P. Bell’s 1892 Kegalle Report makes no mention of Walagamba and refers to the site simply as the Mawela Cave Temple. According to his records, the temple may have been established by King Parakramabahu VI of Kotte.

Details of the Caves

The First Cave:
This chamber is approximately 30 feet long, 20 feet wide, and 22 feet high. Its entrance features two plain Korawakgalas and two Pun Kalasa guard stones, each topped with faint lotus bud motifs—typical of the early Anuradhapura period. Inside is a brick-and-clay stupa, coated in lime plaster. The stupa measures 8 feet 6 inches in diameter and 19 feet in height, standing on a square platform 11 feet 6 inches across. It nearly fills the entire cave. Four seated Buddha statues, each beneath a Makara Torana (dragon arch), surround the stupa. These 4-foot statues have been repainted, damaging the original features typical of the Kandyan period. While traces of plaster are visible on the ceiling, no ancient paintings remain—likely lost during later renovations.

Unfortunately, both this stupa and the reclining Buddha have been damaged by treasure hunters multiple times.

Building small stupas inside caves is a distinctive feature of the Kandyan period. Similar examples can be seen at Hindagala, Warana, and Pilikuttuwa Viharas.

The Second Cave:
Located about 75 feet from the first cave, this chamber serves as the image house. It features a reclining Buddha statue that reflects Kandyan artistic styles. The statue retains its original wavy robe pattern, popular during the Kandyan era, and is painted in gold. Signs of damage by treasure hunters are still visible near the head and cushion. The paintings described by Bell over a century ago are now mostly lost. Only fragments of canopy paintings and a few Arahat figures remain, their colors faded by time and nature.

In front of the temple stands an ancient Bodhi tree on a rock courtyard. About 150 feet beyond lies the third cave, the Sanghavasa, surrounded by a grove of thriving areca nut trees.

The stupa house underneath the first rock cave at the Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya

One of the four Buddha statues underneath the stupa which is believed to be belonging to the Gampola era at the Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya

Entrance to the image house under the second cave at the Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya

A statue of deity Upulvan inside the image house under the second cave at the Mawela Walagamba Len Viharaya

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