Wahalkada D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Viharaya

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වාහල්කඩ D4 වෙහෙරගල රජමහා විහාරය (Vahalkada D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Viharaya)
Vahalkada D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Viharaya
Eranda Nalin Karunarathe
Translated from an article by Eranda Nalin Karunarathe

Allow me to mark the commencement of the second phase of my Rajarata Vanni tour… Two weeks ago, I bid farewell to the village of Vahalkada. However, two weeks later, I returned to this captivating village with my family. On the first day of our tour, after familiarizing them with significant sites such as the Sinhaya Ulpatha, Wahalkada Wewa, and Yaan Oya Reservoir—locations I had previously mentioned in my travel notes—we passed through the Vanarajdahana area on the way back to the village. We planned to visit the D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Viharaya after passing this area.

The sacred site, missing on Google Maps and lacking any detailed documentation, appeared to me to have been a significant place in the Anuradhapura era, based on its archaeological evidence. Situated on somewhat elevated ground to the left of the road in front of the Vahalkada Police Station, this temple, despite being located in an area inhabited by wild elephants, has monks who do not show any fear of them.

Believed to have been built during the reign of King Walagamba, this sacred site, marked by the Vahalkada entrance gate constructed in 2019, feels ancient. After entering the temple, you can see a ‘temple area’ with modern structures. To the south of the temple, there is an ancient Bo tree, rich in history. The lower part of the temple houses a Dharma Hall with an image house, an old residential building, a Sunday School building, and a newly constructed Atavisi Buddha Bodhi enclosure.

A recently built concrete path leads from the lower part to the upper part of the temple, ending atop a rocky plateau. The upper area features numerous archaeological ruins, including two ancient stupas destroyed by treasure hunters, a Vajrasana covered in earth, scattered stone pillars, a pond system, an ancient tunnel, and remnants of two old buildings. Some ancient caves are also found scattered within the forested area.

Modern constructions, including a newly built stupa, a bell tower, and an ongoing relic chamber construction, are visible at the summit. Additionally, to the west of the summit, there is a stepped path and signs of two Naga guardians near a pond and a large stone lamp carved close to the stupa.

In one spot on the rocky plateau, there is a very smooth area of about one and a half square meters. While some said these to be treasure marks, I saw no evidence of treasure on this mountain, as it seems solely a place of ancient monks’ meditation rather than a site for storing wealth. Many believe that treasures were hidden here with specific signs, for future use. However, this is merely a legend.

The natural beauty and scenic surroundings at the mountain summit provide an indescribable sense of serenity. To the south, there is a large forest where elephants roam, and to the north, one can see the northern part of the Wahalkada Wewa reservoir. Several small reservoirs and a few more temples are scattered in the area, with the farmers’ fields appearing in shades of green. Despite being a dry zone, the village’s farming activities thrive, thanks to the Wahalkada Wewa.

The self-sustained economy of this village relies on no external support, strengthening its economic foundation. If not for the lack of drinking water and the threat of wild elephants, the village would be even more secure.

Years ago, this temple was overgrown, but it has been revitalized by Ven. Baddevela Chandrananda Loku Hamuduruwo, who resides there, and Ven. Beruwala Seelananda Podi Hamuduruwo, who arrived about five years ago. Ven. Seelananda, in particular, has done significant work for both the temple and the village, along with the villagers. Most of the modern constructions are initiated by Ven. Seelananda Podi Hamuduruwo, who shared much information with me about the temple and the village. He holds a deep sense of humility and dedication towards the village and its people, working tirelessly on their behalf.

About five years ago, Ven. Baddevela Chandrananda Loku Hamuduruwo, who suffered from paralysis, along with all the visitors to the temple, have been well taken care of by Ven. Seelananda. His dedication to the temple and its activities deserves much appreciation. Therefore, I couldn’t refuse his invitation to spend the night at the temple.

At the invitation of Ven. Seelananda, I spent the night at the Veheragala sacred site. The next morning, my first task was to explore the ancient cave system belonging to the Veheragala temple, located in the forest. Accompanied by my nephew and guided by Ven. Seelananda, we climbed the mountain and entered the forest to the north.

Despite noticing elephant tracks in various places on the mountain, we pressed on under the guidance of Ven. Seelananda, whose presence was reassuring. Without him, I might have found it challenging to locate the cave system on my own. There is no clearly defined path to the caves; the area is densely forested. We had to create a path by clearing brush and vines as we went along. However, the area around the cave system is scattered with numerous archaeological artefacts and ruins, including several small ponds. I also noticed a large number of medicinal plants in this forest.

The first cave that came into view reminded me of my visits to the archaeological sites at Kokebe and the Mahakachchakodiya cave complex. There are mainly three caves in this area. The first cave we encountered has a Brahmi script inscription under its drip ledge. According to Ven. Seelananda, the inscription reads ‘Aba Sela Mevan,’ which he explained translates the name Kitsiri Meghavarna. It remains unclear whether Kitsiri Meghavarna refers to King Kitsiri Mevan or another individual. Nonetheless, it is likely that this site was donated by the prince named in the inscription as a monastic complex.

Inside the cave, there is a broken stone bench likely used for meditation. Despite its dilapidated state, with proper restoration, the cave could still be used today. The stone bench and the wall surrounding the cave may have been constructed during the Kandyan period.

To the south of this cave, further into the forest, lie the other two caves, also featuring drip ledges with inscriptions. Ven. Seelananda mentioned that there are more caves deeper into the forest, but it is unsafe to venture there due to the lack of paths and the presence of hunters with guns targeting wildlife.

Also See

Map of Wahalkada D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Viharaya

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Driving Directions to Wahalkada D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Viharaya

Anuradhapura to Vahalkada D4 Veheragala Rajamaha Vihara
Via : Kahatagasdigiliya – Horovpatana
Total Distance : 89 Kms
Travel Time : 2 hours
Time to Spend : Around 45 minutes
Driving Directions :  View on Google Map

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