Western Monastery "H" in Anuradhapura

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Tapovana Monastery (Western Monasteries) in Anuradhapura - අනුරාධපුර තපෝවනය — Tapovana Monastery (Western Monasteries) in Anuradhapura – අනුරාධපුර තපෝවනය

Out of the usual path of the pilgrim in the quieter parts of the sacred city of Anuradhapura are the Western monasteries or the Tapovana, claimed to be archaeologically as well as ideologically one of the most intriguing of our ancient sites.

The western suburbs of the ancient capital city of Anuradhapura were considered the least desirable area. This region housed burial grounds, cremation sites, and places of execution, and it was inhabited by the lowest communities responsible for maintaining these areas. In this unpleasant and deprived neighbourhood, a group of monks settled in a vehement protest against what they perceived as the worldliness that had defiled the older foundations. To shield themselves from public view, these monks erected head-high walls. They sustained themselves by consuming rice with the harsh and bitter oil of the margosa tree as a condiment and wore robes fashioned from remnants taken from corpses. These monks were practitioners of forest-dwelling meditation and gained prominence in the seventh century, frequently mentioned in the following two centuries.

The main component of the hermitages of these monks was the padhanagaras, or the meditation houses, which were beautifully built of well-proportioned and meticulously-dressed plain stone. The distinguishing feature of these monuments is that they are made up of two sections, a residential pasada or kuti at the back and an open platform or malaka in front, joined together by a relatively narrow passage or stone bridge. Its foundations were built in such a manner that a moat surrounded the platforms. These structures also incorporate a pool and have the main entrance on the east. The main entrance is an elaborate porched doorway built of heavy stone slabs, while the subsidiary entrances have similar but smaller porches.

Architecturally, the habitations of this Tapovana sect, also called Pamsukulin, are generic and are duplicated in many other monasteries of the fraternity as at Ritigala and Arnakele. However, according to scholars, the monasteries at Anuradhapura represent the padhanagara in its most developed form.

First Mention of Western Monasteries

The Western Monasteries (Tapovana) is first mentioned in the reign of Kassapa IV ( 898 -914 CE) it is said that this king built a dwelling there for the Pamsukulika order of monks. Kassapa V (914 -923 CE) built the Deva dwelling in the Thapovanaya. This ascetic grove was also known as the ‘grove of the penitents.’ During the reign of Udaya III (946-954 AC), some court officials who had cause to fear the king sought refuge here only to be followed by the king and his henchmen and beheaded. Outraged, the Thapowanaya community departed as a group for Ruhuna. The citizens, as well as the army, rose in revolt and scaled the tall Ratnaprasada in which the king and his supporters had in turn taken shelter, beheaded them, and tossed their heads from the windows. Not until desperate emissaries from the king had followed the ascetics to Ruhuna and persuaded them back to accept the king’s abject apology was peace restored.

Location

The Western Monastery “H” in Anuradhapura lies very close to the roundabout where the Watawandana Road joins the Arippu Road. The ruins of “H” lie very close to the Watawandana road and cannot be missed. However, very few bother to visit these sites. Western Monasteries G and I lie beside these structures and are clearly identified on the road with notice boards.

Layout of the Monastery

Group H occupies both the ridge of rock and the low land north of Group G. Its main building, H1, lies on the lower ground, connected by footpaths to smaller houses on the ridge. Leveling was necessary, and the area was supported by a low retaining wall.

Main Building (H1)

Approach & Porch: Accessed via an eastern path and stone steps with a plain moonstone. The porch features stone couches with curved granite backs.
First Platform: Similar to monastery G, but here a single massive granite slab bridges to the second platform, likely roofed but open at the sides.
Second Platform: Built partly on rock, its base concealed by an outer terrace wall for aesthetic effect. Surrounded by a moat, which becomes a natural pond on the west. Supported by 24 pillars, likely carrying a tiled, two-story structure.

Features & Finds

The lavatory stone (north side of first platform) is richly decorated with lions, buildings in relief, a Makara torana, and a figure believed to be Kubera.
Corner shrines (northeast & southeast) once sheltered statues, though no fragments remain.
Large quantities of roof tiles suggest a tiled superstructure.

Outbuildings

H2: A larger two-platform building; its second platform was hollow, probably with a wooden floor. Similar structures are found at Mánäkanda and Ritigala.
H3 & H4: Water closet and latrine, located outside the main enclosure, with pathways marked by boulders.
H5: A new addition with two stone basins, interpreted as either a bathroom or a dyeing room.
H6–H8: Smaller houses on the ridge, likely accommodation for surplus monks.

Plan of the Western Monastery 'G' of Ancient Anuradhapura — Plan of the Western Monastery ‘G’ of Ancient Anuradhapura

Western Monasteries Discovered in Thapovana in Anuradhapura

Padhanaghara monasteries found west of the Ancient City of Anuradhapura are identified as

Important Information for Foreign Tourists Visiting Sites at Sacred City of Anuradhapura

Most of the more popular sites in Anuradhapura strictly check for tickets from tourists, while the less-visited sites tend to be more relaxed due to the lack of staff. However, tourists should be cautious, as some unscrupulous tuk-tuk drivers may attempt to exploit this situation.

They sometimes offer to take foreign tourists along routes where ticket checks are less common or even try to collect the entrance fee themselves, claiming they will purchase the tickets on the tourists’ behalf. Tourists are strongly advised not to fall for such scams, as this can lead to unnecessary complications with site security or the police.

Information on the Anuradhapura Cultural Heritage Ticket and where and how to purchase can be found here

Ruins of the Western Monastery 'H' of Ancient Anuradhapura

References

Bandaranayake, S., 1974. Sinhalese Monastic Architecture – The Viharas of Anuradhapura. Leiden: Brill.
Hocart, A. M. (1924). Memoirs of the Archaeological Survey of Ceylon: Vol. I–VI (1st ed.). Archaeological Survey of Ceylon.

Also See

Anuradhapura – The city of the God Kings
Solosmasthana – The Sixteen Buddhist Sacred Sites Hallowed by Buddha
Atamasthana – The Eight Sacred Sites in Anuradhapura

Map of Western Monastery “G” in Anuradhapura Tapovana

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Driving Directions to Anuradhapura

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Bus

Anuradhapura can be conveniently reached by bus, train, or private transport. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate from the Colombo Fort Main Bus Station. In addition, luxury buses departing from various locations in Colombo travel via Anuradhapura to Vavuniya and Jaffna; these require advance online booking and generally operate overnight, arriving at their final destinations early in the morning.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Train

Five daily trains operate from Colombo Fort Railway Station to Anuradhapura. Typically, the first train departs at 9.40 a.m. and the last at 8.30 p.m. The journey takes approximately four to five hours, depending on the number of stops made by the particular service.

Colombo to Anuradhapura By Car or Van

Anuradhapura can be accessed from Colombo via several routes, with the two primary corridors running through Puttalam and Kurunegala. The Puttalam route passes the scenic Wilpattu area. From Kurunegala, there are two main approaches: the more commonly used route via Dambulla and an alternative route via Galgamuwa. Among all options, the Kurunegala–Dambulla route (Route 2) is the most frequently used.

Route 01 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route 02 from Colombo to Anuradhapura
Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Negombo – Chilaw – Puttalam Distance from Colombo: 210 km Travel time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps.
Route 03 from Colombo to Anuradhapura	Route from Kandy to Anuradhapura
Through : Katunayake Expressway – Narammala – Wariyapola – Padeniya – Thambuthegama Distance from Colombo: 203 km Travel Time: 4.30-5.00 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps	Through: Katugastota – Matale – Dambulla Distance from Colombo: 136 km Travel Time: 3.5 hours Driving Directions: see on Google Maps